Goodbye http://blackgirllonghair.blogspot.com...

This will be one of the the last posts on this space. Thanks for the great photos, great conversations and all the love!
....

See you over at ----------------------> www.bglhonline.com

***Update***

We've added a follower box to the new site! Please become a follower to stay posted on all we're doing!

what's your bedtime reggie?

Question for J from Chandra:
Hello Jenteel,
Thank you thank you thank you for your blog I must say first and foremost. I really can't thank you enough for all of the great information and inspiration. I am a singer songwriter currently living in Germany but from Florida. I have struggled with my hair and decisions as regards what to do with it nearly my entire life. After relaxing as an early teenager (I think my mother was just a bit fed up with it) and then of course same story having severe breakage, I then stayed in line with the black girl hair story and opted for weaves, usually always micros which went well. Spent one year in Nashville and before I left home I took all of my braids out and hadn't had my hair relaxed in almost 5 years. My hair was gorgeous. Of course I didn't know it then and immediately put a store bought relaxer in it (stupid stupid stupid) and got a sew in before my big move. But after about 6 months of constant straightening and the occasional kid relaxer, most of my hair in the front completely broke off.

I put the braids back in for my next journey to Europe which would allow me some versatility and then see what was happening in about 6 months. So I've been here in Berlin for exactly 3 months now and just couldn't stand it any longer. I felt like my hair was still suffering in the braids because it wasn't being washed adequately or deep conditioned ever ( because the micros would've come out). So after visiting your website several times, I was inspired to began the labor of love that so many smart and beautiful women of color have already embarked upon. I took all the micros out and looked at myself in the mirror, a bit uncomfortable with what I saw but decided I would deal with and love me (regardless of what my hair was doing..lol).

Are there any tips you would recommend as far as a daily night time routine? I just have no clue what to do with my hair at night..A good friend of mine braids it every night and then takes the braids out in the morning for curly fullness but I didn't know if that's what most natural girls do.

J's response:
Hi Chandra! Thank you for following BGLH. I'm glad you've been inspired to stick with the decision to go natural! I am honored to be 1/3 of this movement that is BGLH! How cool that you moved to Germany to make your dreams come true! All the best to you!

Now to your question! Most of you already know I'm a proponent of low manipulation so I don't braid or twist my hair every night. I try to do protective styles that last throughout the week refreshing at night only if necessary. Here's what I do before bed:

1) spritz my ends and scalp (a nice scalp massage on occasion)
2) add moisturizer to ends (refresh braids/twists if necessary)
3) seal ends with castor oil
4) put on my satin cap then it's beddie-bye time!

I like to call my nightly ritual "SMSP": Spritz Moisturize Seal Protect!
(you like that right-lol)

Spritz
The spritz is important because it hydrates the hair. For this I like to use floral waters, chamomile or sandalwood. I use floral waters so I don't have to worry about contaminants and chlorine in tap water (you can use filtered water if you wish). I keep the floral waters refrigerated and add to a spray bottle as needed. Besides smelling wonderful, my scalp feels so refreshed afterward! It's my daily aromatherapy :) Sometimes I mix the waters with panthenol (an idea suggested by Chicoro). If my hair is craving protein, I use my Aphogee Pro-Vitamin Leave-In Conditioner. You can use protein to help revitalize the hair, but unfortunately damaged hair must eventually be cut out. Click here for some ideas for a daily spritz ideas previously featured on BGLH!

Moisturize
Next is the moisturizer. I like to use a creamy water-based moisturizer (dr. bronner's magic organic lotion). I love how it seeps into my thick hair. It also softens the hair and makes it easier to detangle. When refreshing twists or braids, you can use a wide-tooth comb or detangle with your fingers.

Seal
For the sealant, your options aren't limited to just castor oil. Many naturals love coconut oil or hair butters like shea for sealing, especially for the shine that they impart not to mention the nutrient content.

Protect
Pin the hair up and sleep on a satin pillowcase or use a satin cap.

As you can see, my nightly routine is really simple making it easy to follow. Thanks for your submission Chandra! I thought your "before and after" pictures were especially great in light of the recent "then and now" posts (one of my favorite here at BGLH by the way - great submissions ladies!). Cute cute cute!

chandra then

chandra now!
So now it's your turn! Natural ladies give up the goods!
What's your nightly regimen?
~j~

Now and Then: Shontae

Shontae was one of 5 winners in our recent "Now and Then" giveaway.

"Becoming natural has been the catalyst to my appreciating more features and aspects unique to me and the black community." ~Shontae



I am originally from New Orleans, but I currently live in Richmond, VA...by way of Hurricane Katrina. I'm a single mom to my 8-year-old son and an engineer, who designs plumbing systems for a local A/E firm.

On going natural...
I did my own relaxers, trims, highlights/colors, roller wraps, etc. so I wasn't a slave to the salon. At the time, I thought that I took great care of my hair simply because I swore by magnetic rollers, didn't use flat irons, maybe bumped it with a curling iron once or twice a week, bunned, and deep-conditioned often.



However, the hair around my temples was/is fairly thin and I always seemed to reach a terminal length 2-3 inches past my shoulders.

Be it short or long, all I really wanted was thicker hair. So, I stopped getting a relaxer in early March '09. I did a mini-asymmetrical chop in April, but soon became tired of catering to my relaxed ends. My birthday was approaching and after having been downsized by my former employer, I just wanted to shed the old and start anew. I called a girlfriend of mine to come over one evening and help me with my big chop, 2 days before my 31st birthday in June. The following morning, I ended up going to a stylist to get it trimmed and faded and, soon after, I debuted my fresh teeny weeny afro at both my birthday gathering and my trip back home to New Orleans to visit family and friends. Now I'm coiled, spoiled...oh, and back to being employed. :)

A one word description of her transformation...
Vibrant... Becoming natural has been the catalyst to my appreciating more features and aspects unique to me and the black community.

How do you do black girl bangs?

I love bangs.

Back in my straight-hair days, bangs were my trademark. I was all about the sheeny (though ever-thinning) side-swoop. It was deep to me. Deep enough that I co-signed on this black and white, looking-off-into-the-distance shot taken of me in college, featuring my sheeny bangs.



But these days, making "bangs" mainly consists of me laying my hand down flat at the front of my head and forcing the hair down. I've had mixed success with keeping it down using headbands and such.

I would love to occassionally rock the hair-in-face look. So tell me ladies, how do you do your black girl bang? How do you get the hair in front to stay down and look cute? Have you even been able to do them since you went natural? Please share.

Monday Style Icon: Nia from Baltimore

Where are you from and what do you do?
N: I'm from Baltimore...and I'm in transition. I'll be a college student (somewhere, God willing) in the spring. But right now I work in a high school as a Project Intern for the Youth Development Unit.

When did you go natural? Why?
N: I'm natural by default. =) I had a relaxer once when I was like seven. And it took my hair out....never again.
My mom is natural so it was something that I knew I would probably follow.

My sister, my aunt and my cousin all began to lock and their hair was growing! My hair was short, in fact when I was really young I didn't even have hair..lol I remember the day I decided to lock my mom kept telling me how I was gonna watch my sister's hair grow and be mad, and that day I was supposed to get my hair done, which didn't happen. So i just declared, I'm gonna lock my hair. And that was the summer before sixth grade.

You're 17 and you've had locks for a long time now. How have people around you reacted to your hair?
N: In middle school, people thought I was Jamaican..lol But my friends love it. People tell me how cute and neat they are. It's funny, cause people randomly tell me when they see my hair, "I want locks," or "I'm tryna lock my hair". So..yeah. People are pretty in love with my locks. Lol.

What do you use in your hair?
N: To wash it I use a shampoo bar from a company called Wonderful Oils of the World. It has Tea Tree Oil, Thyme and Rosemary or I use Nadina's Shea Butter Shampoo and Conditioner. To lock I just use pure shea butter and I occasionally oil it with Sunflower and Olive Oil.

What style do you love to rock?
N: Umm..since it's been cut just straight, showing of my cut. I'm soo happy with it!



But I used to love to braid my hair, then take it out so it would be crinkly. That was two styles in one. And really convenient. I could swim in the braids and when i took them out, they'd be crinkly.




Why do you prefer natural hair to relaxed hair?
N: I really love the versatility of being natural, because you can still do a weave or press and still have your natural texture. When you perm, you lose that...and it takes a minute to get it back. And I never wanna lose my natural texture.

For more from Nia check out her blog.

Rachel's Review: Ahuacatl = Aguacate = Avocado

Also known as the “Butter Pear” or “Alligator Pear”, beloved readers, this rather homely fruit yields a rather attractive surprise: an oil that can enrich, health and nourish your scalp. It’s also one of three oils that actually penetrate the hair strand!

A healthy scalp is ultimately responsible for healthy hair (and a healthy body before that, but that, is another post, beloved readers). This is one oil, second and third only to Coconut and Olive oil in my oil roster, that despite its less than cute facade has a rather sexy history. Check the links referenced below or enjoy my paraphrase below.

Nahuatl is the language responsible for the word “ahuatl”, the avocado’s first moniker and it roughly means…erhm…”testicle”. It was seen as a fertility fruit in some indigenous South American societies . Let me paint the picture in as modest strokes as I can: If you had some of these in your basket you were more Pussycat Doll than Nun!

When the Spaniards met these lovely people (before destroying their culture and stealing their land, sigh, colonialism at its best 9.9), ahuatl became “aguacate”. Much easier to say, no? At least, after seven-plus-years of Spanish I can say it is.

When Americans blundered into this healthy-hair wonder, “aguacate” became mangled into “avocado”. Maybe it’s from having studied Spanish so long…but how on earth do you hear “AH-VO-CAH-DOE” in “AH-GWA-CAH-TAY”? I digress.

Why is this so fantastic for your scalp? A quick Google search will give you the dish, but I’ll give you some tidbits here.

As previously mentioned it sinks into the skin. This oil is HEAVY, HEAVY, HEAVY. A little dab will do you. Which is good, as it tends to be one of the pricier oils in large amounts.
It’s also a great source of Vitamin A, K, B1, E and B2 and D.

Why is that so fantastic?

Vitamin A, AKA, retinol (yes, the stuff that preserves your cuteness) is needed to help you eyes adjust to seeing in low-light situations and keeps your skin and other tissues moist (and hopefully wrinkle-free).

Vitamin K helps your kidneys do their various tasks and aids in blood clotting (a lack of this can show in dark circles, but these kind tend to be genetic, I speak from experience).

Vitamin B1, good old “thiamin” is necessary for energy conversion and aids in keeping your body’s systems running at top capacity.

Vitamin B2, which I think has a cute name: “riboflavin”, is vital for producing those oh-so-necessary red blood cells and aids in having healthy vision and radiant skin.

Vitamin D, the “sun vitamin” (another cheerful name ^_^) helps to facilitate the absorbtion of calcium.

Vitamin E is a powerful antioxidant.

It also has lecithin. Lecithin in the body improves mood and healthy circulation (also important for hair growth).

It contains potassium. This is vital for maintaining the body’s water balance (which you should drink plenty of daily for your health and hair).

It also contains amino acids. Amino acids act as the building blocks for many of the body's tissues and…HAIR.

Avocado oil has sterols. Plant sterols have been touted by the FDA for lowering cholesterol. This lovely (on the inside) fruit even has pantothenic acid and other essential fatty acids.

How pleasantly ironic such an ugly fruit packs a pretty punch, no? Having typed all of that, the best way to reap these benefits is to EAT them. Still, applying avocado oil topically is not without merit.

You can rub this on your skin after a shower, add it to a warm bath, use it to "seal" (more accurately, retard the evaporation of moisture) your ends, oil your scalp, or add it in small to moderate amounts to your usual deep conditioner. It can also be whipped into your curly pudding mixes. Yum. ^_^

I personally don’t apply it to the length of my hair as it is heavy and my hair hates direct oil usage to begin with. If I apply it straight it's scalp and ends only. Again, that is because of MY hair's preference. Please fulfill YOUR hair’s particular desires, beloved readers.

Ladies with a dry scalp may find this soothes many an issue.

I hope you give avocado oil a try. Its a great addition to my regimen when I want a break from my usual olive oil and coconut oil mix in my deep conditioners.

Also, beloved readers, just between me and you…if you slather your scalp and hair in this, sleep in it over night and wash lightly with a gentle shampoo in the morning…it’s like Christmas, New Year’s and your Birthday -on your head. Sans the crazy-with-a-capital-C, police sirens and party clean-up. ^_^

PET LOVERS! THIS COULD POTENTIALLY KILL YOUR BELOVED PETS! PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE do not let them lick, ingest or even sniff this in its oil form or in its original solid/fruit form.

Vitamin and nutrient info: HealthClininc.Com, Colorado University and Dr.David Williams (love this man!), jacn.org; Avocado History: avocado.org
---
Rachel, our guest reviewer, waxes poetic on products every Friday.
For more from her check out her blog http://littlegoldenlamb. wordpress.com/

Help me pick a winner for the 'Now and Then' giveaway! UPDATE: We have 5 winners!

More than 25 ladies entered, and now I have to pick 5 to receive a copy of Chris-Tia's book, "Thank God I'm Natural." As you remember, the giveaway was in honor of the book's author, who went from wigged up to natural.

In choosing a winner, I'm looking for

a. how dramatic the change was and
b. and how well the ladies are working the new look.

The winners will also receive a style icon profile.

Please look through the photos (the two posts before this one) and give your thoughts!

I'll decide a winner at noon, then we'll return to our regularly scheduled program ;) This was definitely an AWESOME diversion! I am amazed that so many women sent photos in! And yes, I will DEFINITELY continue doing this on BGLH!

***WINNER UPDATE!***
So I decided to pick the first 4 winners based on number of votes and a 5th winner at random

The winners are:
Chantel
Shontae
Busayo
Kasey
Tammy

Congrats to all of you!

Now and Then giveaway photos, part 2

Part 1 here

Kasey Then and Now



Jennifer Then and Now



Busayo Then and Now



Monique Then and Now



Brenda Then and Now



Kat Then and Now (back of afro puff)



Yolanda Then and Now

Now and Then giveaway photos coming in!!! Check it out!!!

We've already gotten some AMAZING photos.
In case you're out of the loop, this is from the post below...

"Chris-Tia, the recently profiled Harvard lawyer and author just let me know that she is giving away 5 copies of her book "Thank God I'm Natural." So let's turn it into a giveaway!
In honor of Chris-Tia, who went from wigged up to natural, I want you to submit photos of your hair BEFORE and AFTER you went natural. Submit photos to contro_versial@hotmail.com (put 'Now and Then' in the header.) I will post the best ones as I receive them throughout the day."

Here's what we have so far... and keep checking! This is being updated constantly:

Courtney Then and Now...



Janee Then and Now...



Amanda Then and Now...



Maxine Then and Now



Chantel Then and Now



Shontae Then and Now



Ada Then and Now



Nkechi Then and Now



Brittany Then and Now



Bernadette Then and Now



Miss Fizz Then and Now



Gisele Then and Now



Tammy Then and Now



Rachella Then and Now



Carnisha Then and Now



LaDonna Then and Now



Malaika Then and Now



Nicole Then and Now



Ashley Then and Now



Samantha Then and Now



Submit your photos to contro_versial@hotmail.com with 'Now and Then' in the header!

ETA: Part 2

We interrupt our regularly scheduled program for the "Now and Then" giveaway compliments of Chris-Tia

Chris-Tia, the recently profiled Harvard lawyer and author just let me know that she is giving away 5 copies of her book "Thank God I'm Natural." So let's turn it into a giveaway!


In honor of Chris-Tia, who went from wigged up to natural, I want you to submit photos of your hair BEFORE and AFTER you went natural. Submit photos to contro_versial@hotmail.com (put 'Now and Then' in the header.) I will post the best ones as I receive them throughout the day.

Jump on it ladies! And thanks Chris-Tia for the books!

the moisturizing masterbook (courtesy of j!), pt 1

This series was originally posted in February (2/5/09) but as winter approaches, I think we all need to have MOISTURE on our minds. This is me trying to get my moisture on with a pineapple wrap...


***
2/5/2009

so, a few weeks ago, jenteel (our resident hair expert for some months now...) put together a bomb package on our favorite topic; moisturizing!

in a prophetic twist, i realized that i needed a new daily moisturizer soon after she completed the article. so, this article is as much for me as it is for you. here's part 1.

***
As winter sets in, we at BGLH thought it would be important to focus on moisturizing techniques as we brave the sometimes unforgiving winter weather. All the hard work done throughout the year can be diminished if one does not incorporate some “winterproofing” into our hair regimens :)

IT BEGINS ON THE INSIDE...

As far as hair health, I will begin with the internal - the most important. Yes, what you put into your body reflects on the outside; especially important for most of us concerned with the beauty aspects of hair, skin, and nails.

Water: The amount of water you consume actually varies by person. I don’t stick to the “8 glasses a day” rule because we are all different. You should drink a little less than half your body weight in ounces of water per day. If you exercise, you should add 16 oz to the total for every 45 minutes of strenuous activity. For every ounce of caffeinated beverage that you drink, you need to drink and additional 2 oz of water.

Fruits/ Vegetables: Try to consume fruits and veggies with a high water content; red-orange fruits and veggies, leafy greens, citrus & berries.

Vitamins/Minerals: Vitamin A, C, E, zinc, selenium, and omega-3 fatty acids. Omega-3s are very important. For vegetarians who don’t eat fish/fish oils, try nuts/oils like macadamia, walnuts & almonds.

Useful Supplements: MSM, Spirulina, Silica & DHA.

WHAT YOU PUT INTO IT...

No-poo / Co-wash: This is a technique popularized by Lorraine Massey in her book, “Curly Girl - The Handbook: A Celebration of Curls: How to cut them, care for them, love them, and set them free”. The premise for this technique is that most shampoos contain harsh, drying sulfates that are extremely damaging for curly hair (ammonium laureth sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, etc.). They make curly hair frizzy and uncooperative. Using conditioner in place of shampoo will cleanse the hair just as effectively without stripping it of moisture. Gentle shampoos that contain mild cleansers (i.e. cocamidopropyl betaine or coco betaine) can be used occasionally.

Deep Conditioning Treatments: You can make these treatments yourself or purchase commercial conditioners that contain one of more of the following ingredients: honey, botanical extracts, shea butter, avocado oil, olive oil, castor oil, sunflower oil etc. INGREDIENTS TO AVOID: mineral oil & petroleum which coats the hair and prevents moisture from getting in. A good conditioner should flatten the cuticles and fill in rough spots, thereby smoothing the hair surface. It should also provide good lubrication so that hair glides over each other avoiding snags and breakage. This is where slip becomes important. Slip describes how easy it is to get the comb thru the hair strands. Leave in a deep conditioner for 30 minutes to an hour with heat, longer without.

Oils: Coconut and olive oils are known to penetrate the hair shaft easily, but make sure to mix the oils with even a little bit of water to really penetrate the cuticle. Jojoba oil is similar to our own sebum so this works well on the scalp and as a sealant.
***
there is SOOO much more, but we'll do bits at a time.
thoughts?

Harvard Law School graduate and author Chris-Tia: I nearly lost my job because of my wig obsession

After accepting a position at one of the top law firms in the nation straight out of Harvard Law School, I felt major pressure to blend in with my white colleagues. I was working long hours and felt like I needed to be a younger version of the ultra beautiful, super smart, and sophisticated Claire Huxtable (from “The Cosby Show”) in order to truly be accepted by my white co-workers. Had I been practicing law for fifteen years and gained a strong reputation by this point, I might have felt more at ease with my decision to wear my hair natural. Unfortunately, there were only two black women in my department and I was one of them. I wasn’t exactly looking to complicate matters by putting on my dashiki and rocking Bantu knots to my first client meeting.

I knew I needed to let go and stop wearing a wig -- but after two years of waking up every morning and putting one on, I couldn’t stand the sight of myself without my synthetic tresses. Day in and day out, I would constantly make excuses to myself as to why I couldn’t wear my natural hair uncovered: My hair isn’t long enough. I don’t know what products to use. It only takes me five minutes to get ready in the morning. My colleagues would talk about me. My boyfriend would dump me. No one would ever find me attractive.

Chris-Tia's wig


To make matters worse, I had gotten used to having long silky, straight hair -- which drew compliments daily. After getting a perm for twenty-plus years, I didn’t know the first thing about caring for my natural texture. I had no clue what products or styling tools to use or how to work with the tight, spongy curls sitting atop my head. Learning to do my hair was like teaching myself Swahili. I simply didn’t know where to begin.

Then there was the issue of seeing the reactions of my friends and co-workers who would now know that I had been wearing some kind of extensions for the past two years. While my hair had grown quite long, it wasn’t silky or straight. Instead, it looked dry and dull -- like week-old cotton candy, because I had kept it covered for so long.

In addition to my apprehension over my dramatic change in appearance and the styling difficulties that came along with it, for the first time in my life, I also had to deal with the daily challenge of seeking a new job after my boss informed me that my work fell quite short of meeting my department’s expectations. Needless to say, wearing a wig had taken a major toll on my self-esteem, and was affecting me on many levels, both personally and professionally.

Ironic, isn’t it? It turned out that wearing a wig had made very little difference after all -- and hadn’t spared me from being told that I didn’t have a future with my firm. After putting so much time and effort into appeasing my conservative white colleagues, it hadn’t truly helped or changed anything. In hindsight, I should have pulled a Jill Scott or Erykah Badu on my very first day at my law firm and spent the countless hours I had invested worrying about my appearance into focusing on my job performance. If only I had known and appreciated then how truly beautiful my own, natural hair is – it would have saved me so much heartache, expense, and wasted energy. I walked away from the firm with my pride wounded, however, much more importantly, with the realization that my own lack of confidence and esteem lay at the heart of my failure. This truth was much more painful than the simple disappointment of coming close to being fired.

After several months of working tirelessly to find a new position, God stepped in and blessed me with a new job, where I felt like I could not only be myself, but that I also had the potential to become a tremendous asset to the firm’s already outstanding talent. After gladly accepting the job, I was amazed at how comfortable I was with my decision to wear my hair natural on the very first day. Surprisingly enough, I was given more opportunities and received better mentoring than I did at my first firm. Due to the change in professional atmosphere, I was finally able to prove my talent and dedication to my work. This was a welcome change from my first law firm, where I fought so desperately to accommodate society’s unattainable beauty standard for black women (and not my own).

The more I loved and accepted my natural hair, the more people applauded my work and complimented me. This sense of confidence and pride in my appearance had a profound effect on every aspect of my world. I began to realize that in the past, the only thing truly preventing me from being happy and fulfilling every aspect of my dream was merely my conception of myself. Once I realized that I didn’t need to keep buying into the unhealthy and consuming expectation of appearance, my own job performance started to thrive. Today, I don’t think twice about wearing my hair natural and have finally come to fully appreciate the beauty and uniqueness of my kinky mane. When I put on my favorite suit and walk into a client meeting, I know it doesn’t matter how I wear my hair. My opinions will be respected and heard. My relationships with my colleagues, both black and white, have never been better. And, strangely enough, some of our most interesting conversations have been about the uniqueness and beauty of black hair.

My natural journey has taught me many lessons -- but most importantly, that we, as black woman, must embrace our unique differences and traits and no longer be ashamed of who we truly are. It has taken me close to twenty-five years to accept my hair for what it really is, but now, I can now finally say, THANK GOD I’M NATURAL!

Chris-Tia Donaldson, a Detroit native who currently lives in Chicago, is author of the book "Thank God I'm Natural," which comes highly recommended by stylists and beauty bloggers. She was recently interviewed on Chicago station WGN and will be holding a book signing on November 1 from 2 to 4 p.m. at the AfriWare book store in Oak Park, Illinois. For more information, check http://thankgodimnatural.wordpress.com/

Style Icon: GG from Maryland

"The process of transitioning taught me that anything is possible and helped me see many other ideas and misconceptions that had been programmed into my thinking without me realizing it. My hair reminds me of how much I've grown and all the changes I've gone through over the last few years and I love it." ~ GG




Where are you from and what do you do?
GG: I currently live in Maryland. By day, I manage financial intermediary relationships at a mutual fund company, and my workplace is a very conservative environment. By night, I'm a busy mom, significant other, problem solver, superwoman extraordinare. In between, I love to write and blog every chance I get.

When did you go natural? Why (especially since you had long relaxed hair)?
GG: I got my last relaxer in February of 2006 after I had my daughter. My hair was long, I guess according to most definitions, but it was also really thin and damaged. I started off by just stretching my relaxer attempting to get it healthy. After 6 months, I was so in love with my new growth and how soft and curly it was, that I just kept going. I needed a change.

I've always had long-ish hair but it's always been a cycle of growth and breakage then more growth and breakage. As a teenager, I was only allowed occasional relaxers (maybe 2-3 times a year) and my hair was thick and long back then. So, thinking back to those days made me want to see what my hair would do if I stopped relaxing. Underneath all of that, I was getting close to 30 and going through all kinds of identity issues. I felt myself changing on the inside and wanted to reflect it on the outside.

What style do you love to rock?
GG: My favorite style to rock is a picked out braid or twist out. After co-washing, I braid or twist my hair in about 8-10 sections and put satin rollers at the end. When it's dry, I take the braids/twists out and pick it out with the end of a rat tail comb or a metal pick. This gives me crazy volume and density. I may wear a headband or scarf or pin it this way or that way in the front. Throughout the day, it just gets bigger and bigger. I love how the air makes it expand and look even bigger and more unruly. At night, I put it in a ponytail like a pineapple on top of my head and it will last like that a of couple days with a little refreshing as needed.



What do you use in your hair?
GG: I'm constantly trying new products as my budget allows, but I swear by shea butter/coconut oil mix! My hair has never felt so moisturized before using coconut oil. It has changed the game. I also use Aussie Moist conditioner for cowashes, Hair One sulfate-free shampoo, Setting Lotion (Dark&Lovely, Lottabody, whatever!) and Herbal Essences Long-Term Relationship Leave-In Conditioner for my ends. I always pre-condition my hair with coconut oil mixed with some type of conditioner...whatever I have around. I also dust my ends atleast a couple times a month when I twist or braid. I wear protective styles most of the time, but when I feel like it, I'll blow dry and do dry braid-outs or flat iron and do dry roller sets or pin curls with setting lotion.

Do you prefer natural to relaxed?
GG: NATURAL!!!!!! Mainly, because it's fuller and thicker and I've always wanted BIG hair. I just never thought that I could actually achieve big hair without its groupies Frizz and Dry coming along with it! Plus, I just love the texture and versatility that I have now.

I feel more unique and creative with natural hair. I don't have to fight the elements anymore and I don't have to continue the cyle of growth and breakage from chemicals and over-processing. The process of transitioning taught me that anything is possible and helped me see many other ideas and misconceptions that had been programmed into my thinking without me realizing it. My hair reminds me of how much I've grown and all the changes I've gone through over the last few years and I love it.

For more of the lovely GG check out her two blogs; http://www.peaceloveprettythings.blogspot.com/ and http://thewritecurldiary.blogspot.com/

Natural hair in the media: Louis Vuitton Spring 2010 show features white models with oversized afros UPDATED

Louis Vuitton models at Paris Fashion Week

Marc Jacobs, the creative director for LV is quoted as saying that the collection was "about travelers—the movement that came after punk. Then we were thinking about hiking, trekking, and then denim and parkas—city utilitarianism."
A full story is here. I'll let you guys add your own caption to this one. What do you think?

***

Excerpt from Newsweek article on Zahara Jolie's hair written by Allison Samuels;



"But even the mothers who spare the hot comb still have to put time and effort into keeping hair healthy: Any self-respecting black mother knows that she must comb, oil, and brush her daughter’s hair every night. This prevents the hair from matting up, drying out, and breaking off. It also prevents any older relatives from asking them why you’re neglecting your child and letting her run around looking like a wild woman. Having well-managed hair is not just about style, it’s about pride, dignity, and self-respect. Keeping your daughter’s hair neat is an unspoken rule of parental duties that everyone in the community recognizes and respects.
.
Hair that is nice, neat, and cared for also gives African-American girls the confidence that they can fit into the world at large without being seen as completely different. One truism of childhood is that nothing is more important than being like everyone else. Well, as like everyone else as you can be with Hollywood parents. But not all people will recognize Zahara as the child of movie royalty. To many, she’ll be just a black little girl—and a black girl with bad hair at that.

In recent pictures it's clear Angelina Jolie hasn’t taken the time to learn or understand the long and painful history of African-American women and hair. If she had I can’t imagine she would continue to allow Zahara to look like she has in the past few months. Photos of Zahara show the 4-year-old girl sporting hair that is wild and unstyled, uncombed and dry. Basically: a “hot mess.’’

African American blogs and forums such as Media Takeout, Black Hair Media and even mainstream outlets like TMZ have been on fire the past few weeks demanding to know why Angelina won’t just comb Zahara’s hair? Each blog receives hundreds of e-mails every time they run a picture of the little girl with her hair uncombed. "I just hope that they realize she has different hair needs and find someone black who can keep her hair looking good,” said a commenter on Bossip.com. "Angie, if you can’t comb hair then get someone who can. This is ridiculous now. Your hair is always in place and so is Shiloh’s. Why does Zahara have to always look like she just woke up?" writes a commenter on TheFabLife.com."

I'm sorry Allison, but I'm not seeing how Zahara has "bad hair". She looks cute to me. Her hair looks shiny — a good sign — and it probably stands up like that because it's a cross between a curly and kinky texture.

I stand corrected: Drugstore conditioners can work on ANY texture

So, on a recent post I made the following very unscientific observation:

"I find that the looser the texture, the easier it is to use products that were originally made for white/hispanic/asian/loose or straight textured women. While those of us with coarser textures (including myself) have to be more careful."

JC, a chemist who blogs over at The Natural Haven had a different take. Peep it:

What is the purpose of hair conditioner?

Contrary to popular opinion, hair conditioner is designed not for a particular hair type but rather to give you an effect. This is because structurally hair is hair is hair. Yes I am saying my African hair is the same as my Asian friends’s hair or my Caucasian husband’s hair.

What exactly is in hair conditioner?

Hair conditioner is mostly water with some conditioning agents.

What do conditioning agents do?

It depends on the amount and type of agent but they have a huge range of roles from smoothing the cuticle, filling gaps, temporarily sealing split ends, creating ‘slip’, reducing frizz, giving a feeling of softness……..the list is endless.

My best advice for picking a hair conditioner

You need to read the claim on the conditioner. This is just as important as knowing the top 5 ingredients.

For example, if your hair feels dry, I would say, PASS on a conditioner which promises glossy shiny curls and go for one which says it is designed for dry hair even if the ingredients include parts that you may not like. Why? You may actually like the result better because the conditioner is formulated (meaning a person (often a scientist for big brands) is paid to mix up the correct amount and type of ingredients) intended for your problem.

I hear you ask…….Are hair conditioners not tested on certain ethnicities?

Yes the vast majority are tested on brown Caucasian hair because this can be distinguished from bleached blonde hair and there is more of it (tests are usually done in a lab setting on cut pieces of hair). This does not mean a conditioner will not work for your hair because the cuticle which is the part that hair conditioner affects the most is nearly identical across the races.

But I do have one last question/observation; If it is true that kinkier textures are more fragile than straighter/looser curled texture. And if it is true that many drugstore conditioners contain harsh products (sulfates, silicones, etc), then could it be true that looser textures stand up better to drugstore conditioners than kinkier textures? What do you think? Weigh in!

And check out JC's blog!

Monday Style Icon: Andrea of Fly (with tutorial)

Andrea maintains Fly, one of the most popular graphic design blogs on the Web which features a daily mashup of fashion, art and design. I'm happy to have her here on BGLH!



Where are you from and what do you do?
A: I'm originally from Maryland but now call Philadelphia my home. I am a graphic designer, illustrator, and blogger.

Some of Andrea's designs




Your blog is amazing. Where did you get the idea for it?
A: I discovered blogging back in 2006 and thought it was such an amazing way to share my design inspiration. At the time I couldn't find too many blogs that spoke to women of color and felt I could help fill that void.

How do you find all this randomly cool stuff?!
A: I find my posts by doing research online, reading magazines and newspapers, and talking to other creatives. A lot of the times I don't have to look, I get a lot of links and info sent to me which is always great.

I hope that anyone can visit Fly and feel they can find something they love enough to come back for more. But my main target is women of color interested in creative inspiration. After working in creative industries for years I often found that I was the only person of color in the room. We need more diversity in creative fields. Therefore, I hope that Fly can expose those who don't often see themselves in these roles and help them realize that they can pursue these wonderful, lucrative opportunities of creative expression.

When did you go natural and why did you do it?
A: Unlike many others, I didn't have too many problems with my permed hair; my hair wasn't visibly damaged, it looked healthy, and I did it myself so I didn't spend a lot of money or time at the salon. But who knows what it was doing to my subconscious, so after having a perm for most of my life I felt it was time to allow my hair to do it it's natural thing. I went natural in 2001 after being tired of wearing the same flat-ironed wrap that I felt made me look like everyone else. After about a year of indecision, I walked into a barbershop and said "I'm ready." Minutes later I was walking out of there with a low-cut and a sharp shape-up. I just wanted to look and try something different and also be good to myself and my hair.



What's your regimen?
A: Every week I wash my hair, twist it wet, and wear it like that for a few days before doing my twist out 'fro. Sometimes I'll pin-up my twists for a little variation. Quite honestly I need to experiment with new hairdos. I miss when it was short and didn't have to do much of anything, I might make that move again soon.


Andrea's fro tutorial: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K5-7HH7gakE



Do you prefer natural to relaxed?
A: I prefer natural because it's healthier and more unique. To me, it takes a lot more work and patience to deal with natural hair (especially if it's long) but it really is worth it because it's beautiful. AND it's versatile, I can get it pressed and wear it like that for a while and then go back to the natural (the press only lasts a week for me, after that week I'm always over the hair being in my face). With that said I don't knock anyone for getting a perm, a hair journey is personal and although I can try to inspire someone to go natural, it's something they have to decide and feel comfortable enough to do on their own.

Malon: 17 years old and a style icon

Where are you from and what do you do?
M: I'm from Los Angeles California. I'm a student. This year I'm a Senior WOOP WOOP! I love writing, photography, art, and fashion. I'm a slam poet. In the future I want to own and distribute my own magazine!

You're only 17. Do you realize that you're further along with this 'natural hair thing' than women twice your age?
M: Yes I feel like being younger is actually a benefit. Lots of older women carry baggage that we as the younger generation don't have. They were told their hair is their crown and glory, that Black people couldn't get jobs if their hair was "nappy." I don't neccesarily harbor feelings like that, so it was an easier transition for me.

Have you been natural all your life?
M: You can kinda sorta say that. My mother never allowed me to relax my hair. I always wanted to because I thought as a black girl that's just what you did. I'm really thankful for my parents because they never let me fall into that good hair/bad hair thing... My dad would always say good hair is hair that's on your head. Even though I still straightened my hair my parents planted the seeds that would eventually help me liberate myself.

Do you see other naturals your age?
M: YES! Like I said earlier it is less of a cultural taboo in my generation. Mostly all of my friends are natural or wear their hair out naturally. I love the fact that us as black people are accepting ourselves for who we are and not feeling 'less than'... I feel like even if you want to straighten your hair, as long as you accept who you are and its not some subconcious self hate thing, go right on ahead. I will admit that I liked being the only one natural and now that so many other people are doing it I stand out less. But I'll sacrifice my indivuality for the advancement of our race, haha.

Wise words from a cutie. Check out Malon's blog; adollarormore.blogspot.com

Chris Rock's "Good Hair": Your Reactions

So I saw Good Hair on Friday... Unfortunately I was late to the meetup. It was raining in Chicago Friday and you KNOW what that means for traffic!!! I slipped into the theater as the beginning credits were rolling and asked a few women if they were "from BGLH". They looked at my like I was crazy, so at the end of the movie I just stood conspicuously in the theater lobby, hoping that someone would recognize me and walk up. No one did. But for those of you who came, I was the girl in the brown coat standing beside a curly-headed girl (my friend Niccole), looking hella obvious....

IN ANY CASE, for those of you who saw the movie this weekend, what were your reactions to the film???!

I didn't agree with all the conclusions Chris Rock came to, but I thought that his research was impeccable. I would have liked some clearer sourcing for the statistics he cited. But overall I really feel that it is a ground breaking film.

I'm going to turn it over to you? Did you see the film? What did you think? (For those of you who haven't seen it, I'm sorry for the spoilers that are sure to come. You should go out to see it regardless!!)

Preview of monday style icon: Andrea from Philly

Andrea maintains Fly, one of the most popular graphic design blogs on the web. Check our her full profile Monday.

Wednesday Style Icon? Yes!

Our style icon series has really taken off! More and more women from all around the country and world are emailing in with their photos and thoughts on natural hair.

I have been really honored to profile some AMAZING women on this site, and because of the increased influx I will add Wednesday as I day that I profile icons. Not all Wednesdays, but many.

Our upcoming Wednesday icon is G.G.



In the very first BGLH post I ever did I mention that after shaving all my hair off, I searched the media for hair inspiration and found very, very little. So it's exciting that now, you all are hair inspiration for me and the women who check BGLH. (Take your hand, put it on your shoulder and pat.)

Being a style icon has nothing to do with hair length or texture and everything to do with uniqueness, imagination and creativity.

I'm trying to working up to icon status myself. My hair is not *quite* there yet (I don't want to do a profile and be put on blast on my own enterprise... not that that would happen, but still) but I'm working my way there...



Thanks guys for supporting the site and keep the profiles coming!

Rachel's Review: Oils that penetrate hair

Beloved readers, if you’ve followed me for a bit, you know I am very for adding oils to deep conditioners. Oils, by themselves (on clean hair) can be used as a deep conditioner (the infamous “hot oil treatment” comes to mind, but one doesn’t have to heat up the oils from the start if your fear scalp burns). It is best to use coconut, avocado or olive oils for this. Why? They actually penetrate the hair strand.

The Beauty Brains, reference a particular study that found these oils do actually penetrate the hair shafts and others do not. My disclaimer for the Beauty Brains is as follows: I don’t agree with everything they’ve stated, as I’ve had experiences that have been to the contrary of things they’ve noted. That said, they’re more than willing to give you their credentials as cosmetic scientists.

You can read the whole article here, or my cliff notes version below on the penetrative abilities of these three oils:

“. . .Yes, studies have shown that coconut oil actually penetrates the hair to help make it stronger.

And as it turns out, olive oil also has penetrating properties. Scientists at the Textile Research (J. Cosmet.Sci 52, 169-184, 2001) tested Olive oil, Avocado oil, Meadowfoam seed oil, Sunflower oil, and Jojoba oil.

Their results showed that straight chain glycerides like olive oil easily penetrate into the hair.

Polyunsaturated oils , like Jojoba oil, are more open in their structure so they don’t pass through the layers of cuticles very well.

What does that mean in plain English?

Olive and Avocado oils penetrate all the way into the hair shaft.

Meadowfoam seed oil partially penetrates, and jojoba and sunflower oils don’t penetrate at all. . . .”
-Left Brain

More information on each of these oils particular properties are to follow in the coming weeks.

Until then, want to do a simple treatment?

1. Mix equal parts of any of these or use one straight.
2.Apply enough to coat hair.
3.Apply a plastic shower cap for at least an hour or overnight.
4.Rinse THOROUGHLY. You may need to rinse with tea or co wash with your preferred conditioner (even possibly lightly shampoo) to fully remove excess oil (but not all of its oily goodness! ^_~)
5. Enjoy healthier hair! The more you use them…the better. ^_^

Until next time! We'll explore properties of each of these oils individually in the coming weeks.
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Rachel, our guest reviewer, waxes poetic on products every Friday.
For more from her check out her blog http://littlegoldenlamb. wordpress.com/

BGLH Meetups to watch "Good Hair" on Friday

Chicago
ICE Theatres Chatham 14,
210 West 87th Street,
Chicago, IL 60620,
(773)783-8711,
6:20 p.m. showing

St. Louis
AMC West Olive Theater
12657 Olive St
Creve Coeur, MO 63141
Time to be announced
contact: caramelpisces@sbcglobal.net

Los Angeles
National Amusements The Bridge: cinema de lux
6081 Center Drive, Los Angeles, CA 90045
7:45 p.m. Friday showing. It will cost $2 to park.
contact: angelina.ucla@gmail.com
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Please take photos at your meetup and submit them to contro_versial@hotmail.com

Interview: New York designer Nilea Alexander

Nilea Alexander is a designer getting major buzz in New York. A graduate of the Parsons School for Design she created her first collection in 2004, runs a vintage booth at the Brooklyn Flea Market called NileA P FleA, and has done freelance design work for Urban Outfitters.

She was recently featured as "Girl of the Month" on Urban Outfitters' blog and just finished her newest collection, Underground Love Story, which she described in her UO interview as "a dark and romantic line of clothing inspired by my personal vintage collection."

Nilea's work has been covered by Daily Candy, Women's Wear Daily, Daily News, and Metro News and last month's cover of Ready-Made magazine featured Underground Love Story.



BGLH: First a little background: Where are you from?
NA: I am originally from Atlanta GA. I moved to New York in 2002 soon after I finished college at Georgia State and currently live in Crown Heights, Brooklyn.

BGLH: So about the infamous Urban Outfitters interview... How did you get hooked up with that?
NA: I have done freelance artist design projects for Urban Outfitters in the past and they carried one of my collections a few years ago. I was excited to be chosen for their “Girl of the Month” blog interview.

BGLH: The Urban Outfitters interview raised your profile in the blogosphere. Were you expecting that?
NA: Not really to be honest. I know that Urban Outfitters Blog is huge and that they have a lot of readers but I never really expected for other bloggers to contact me from that article.

BGLH: Tell me about your designing! How did you get started and where are you at right now?
NA: I have been designing for well over 10 years now. I started in high school home economics class in which I learned how to sew and then began making prom and cocktail dresses for friends.

When I moved to New York and enrolled in a design program at Parsons I started designing lingerie. A few years later with a friend I was designing a remade vintage line that was eventually picked up by Urban Outfitters. Now I currently design my solo collection Underground Love Story.

BGLH: How would you describe your design aesthetic? And what inspired it?
NA: My current collection is called Underground Love Story, a dark and romantic collection, inspired by the turn of the century Victorian era. Ultra feminine with big sleeves, bows, and ruffles the pieces are whimsical and made to inspire that feeling.
Nilea's Underground Love Story collection




BGLH: Where are your clothes sold?
NA: The website for the collection is www.undergroundlovestory.com. Currently the pieces from the lookbook are only sold wholesale. We are currently building a online retail webstore so that pieces can be sold individually. I am very excited about that and am planning a big launch for new store.

BGLH: When did you go natural and why?
NA: My hair has been natural since college and I just never went back. Its no big story actually, I had damaged it so much from over-processing that I really had no choice but to chop if off. It's just easier this way.

BGLH: How do you normally wear your hair?
NA: I change it up from time to time between an afro and a short box shape. I always keep the blond bleach stripe no matter what. I have had it for so long now I can not imagine myself without it.

BGLH: Where did you get the idea for the stripe?
NA: Gosh I really don't remember i feel like it just morphed into this. It started out as a dark brown patch..nothing special and then I lightened it to a dark honey blonde, then I lightened it again to a light blonde, and voila I started to bleach it.



BGLH: What do you like best about being natural?
NA: It's easy and it’s the hair that God gave me. I think that the blond patch has become a refection of me because it is how people have come to recognize me. I like that!
---
Thank you Nilea! You, your hair and your designs are awesome!

You can find Nilea's line here; http://www.undergroundlovestory.com/.
Her blog here; http://www.undergroundlovestory.blogspot.com/.
Her flea market booth here; http://www.myspace.com/nileapvintage

Also, Nilea will be doing a flea market this Sunday Oct 11th at Bembe in Williamsburg Brooklyn from 3 - 8 selling remade vintage pieces. Be sure to check it out! Tell her BGLH sent you ;)

Huffington Post writer Lola Jaye explains why she thinks relaxing isn't that big a deal... Weigh in!

I was notified about this Huffington Post article by a BGLH reader who wished to remain anonymous. She was bothered by the author's conclusions, which downplayed any negative psychology behind black women's decisions to relax and denied any significance to Michelle Obama's choice of hairstyle.

I was able to get in contact with the article's author, UK based novelist Lola Jaye.
She was willing to answer some tough questions. Read through the interview and post your thoughts!

BGLH: Lola, first off... It's awesome that you had a gig writing for a leading blog like Huffington Post! How did you get hooked up with that?
LJ: Thank you. I’d heard about Chris Rock’s upcoming movie and had come across a few articles on your wonderful First Lady Michelle Obama and her hairstyles, so I decided to marry the two topics together and have some fun. Luckily, it just so happens that both topics are kind of hot at the moment.

Having my writing displayed on a website like Huffpo is such an honor, even if some of my friends hadn’t heard of it!

BGLH: Before we talk about hair, I'd like you to talk a bit about your book "By The Time You Read This". Where did you get inspiration for that story? And how long did it take to write?

LJ: I had been writing, unpublished for years. But one day, I was sitting at home watching Oprah and the show focused on a dying mother who had left a collection of keepsakes for her daughter. I started to ponder this terrible situation and wondered what would happen if I wrote about a man’s love for his daughter and his desire to raise her – even when he couldn’t be around to do that.

I felt really strongly about writing something from the point of view of a man; a man who thinks, feels and loves. A strong, beautiful man who loves his child with everything he has, and is not afraid to cry or to tell his daughter that he loves her. That was important to me. The story had such a pull that I wrote the first draft in six months – whilst holding down a full time job. My agent sent the manuscript to a UK publisher and the USA followed. My novel By The Time You Read This has now been published in some other languages including Korean. I still have to pinch myself!

BGLH: Do you wear your hair naturally now? And when did you make that decision to go natural? What spurred that decision?
LJ: I don’t wear my hair natural at present, so shall I leave now!? Seriously, I’ve had many styles; braids, weaves, funky ‘fro, curls. I even shaved my hair off once! Oh, how liberating that felt – until I had to go to work (I promptly lost my nerve and bought a wig, which felt awful because I kept imagining a lone stranger walking up to me and whipping it off!). Currently, I am wearing thinly plaited –in extensions, which cost loads to get done here in London. In Nigeria, I get it done for a fraction of the price (if we ignore the air fare!).

BGLH: Why did you lose your nerve?
LJ: My head was completely shaved off - bald, clean and I needed the insulation! Have you been to London in the winter? :)

Some ladies - like Solange Knowles, look absolutely beautiful with very short hair - but I have a really big head and with no hair on it, this shows!

BGLH: When you were natural did you view it as a style, or was it an attempt to be more accepting of your hair in its natural state?
LJ: I think for many people, it can be a bit of both. I was totally bored with the straight look so rocking a funky afro seemed a million miles away from that style.

BGLH: You said in your Huffington Post article

“We debated the historical and psychological factors many feel are responsible for the rise in women who relax or weave their hair and it all got a bit confusing and we were unable to reach firm conclusions."

Why did the discussion get confusing, and why were you unable to reach firm conclusions?
LJ: I think it’s such a contentious issue. A lot (not all) of my girlfriends do wear their hair relaxed and in effect they were having to justify themselves. However, the discussions ranged from the ‘need’ for straight hair dating back many years, to the manageability argument, to the accusations of buying into the notion that current perceptions of beauty do not include Afro hair or anything remotely African. It was a long discussion!

However, without dismissing any theories, we ended up concluding that women are a myriad of differences. We aren’t all the same and should not be defined as such. One woman’s reasons (psychological or not) for relaxing her hair are not the same as another woman’s reasons for relaxing her hair. Everyone (thankfully) is different.

BGLH: You also said this;

"From my girlfriends' perspective, being able to change hair styles with the aid of hair extensions or weaves once a month has more to do with having the power to look different on a whim, than a deeper psychological reason. Oh and a lot to do with laziness as the thought of just giving the mane a quick run through with the hand before heading out for the day as opposed to a thorough comb job is quite appealing. Leaving them time to get on with other things (although one could argue that the eight hours a month spent getting it styled is just as time consuming)."

Aside from the issue of versatility ("the power to look different") do you think there is something significant about the fact that black women often seek diversity of styles with straight hair as a template instead of their own natural texture? Also do you think there is any significance in the fact that, anecdotally, a higher percentage of black women alter their natural texture?
LJ: As I touched on in the article, conformity can come into play as it almost seems the ‘norm’ to have a relaxed ‘do or a weave. Oh wow, that would mean I am a conformist – and yet I believe myself to be far from that.

So what is the right answer to your question?

I don’t think there is one. You see, there can be a tendency for women, whatever their color, to be defined by their hair. And this is unfortunate. We’ve all heard the sexist ‘blonde jokes’. In England, even ginger (red) hair can induce pre-conceived perceptions that aren’t very flattering. And as I touched on in the article, women of color with ‘natural’ hair can be viewed as more in touch with their African self, than those with a weave!

It’s always best to never judge a book by its cover (no pun intended) but instead choose to look inside of that person whilst trying not to make any assumptions based on a person’s hairstyle.

BGLH: Do you feel that choice of hair style is ever an indication of a person's personality or beliefs?
LJ: Having worked as a psychotherapist in the past, I am no stranger to the knowledge that history and upbringing can contribute to a persons psychological state. Just as there may be women who are more readily influenced by certain belief systems, for others, their motivation for straightening their hair or wearing weaves can be more to do with versatility and convenience. A hairstyle can at times be just that.

A lady I know wore her hair in dreadlocks for years and one day decided to cut them off. Soon after, an acquaintance of hers admitted feeling 'let down' by this act as she'd previously thought of her as a radical Sistah! My friend's confident reaction sums things up nicely; 'I am still the same person. Nothing has changed, except the style of my hair!'

BGLH: Thanks so much Lola for taking the time to answer these questions!
LJ: A pleasure!

---
What are your thoughts? For more of Lola check her website; http://lolajaye.com/

When you email I DO listen... New York designer Nilea Alexander and Huffington Post write Lola Jaye will be on BGLH.

A few weeks ago, BGLH reader Jemitra suggested that we contact Nilea Alexander, a young black designer who is making a big impression on the New York fashion scene... Nilea's work has been carried by Urban Outfitters and featured in the NY Daily News.



Well I contacted Nilea, who is natural, and she liked the idea of being profiled. So she'll be here on BGLH Wednesday (in advance of a flea market sale she's holding at Bembe in Williamsburg Brooklyn on October 11.)

Thanks Jemitra for the suggestion!

I was also recently contacted by another BGLH reader, who was miffed by a Huffington Post article on Michelle Obama's hair written by UK novelist Lola Jaye.

She was particularly bothered by these lines:

From my girlfriends' perspective, being able to change hair styles with the aid of hair extensions or weaves once a month has more to do with having the power to look different on a whim, than a deeper psychological reason. Oh and a lot to do with laziness at the thought of just giving the mane a quick run through with the hand before heading out for the day as opposed to a thorough comb job is quite appealing. Leaving them time to get on with other things (although one could argue that the eight hours a month spent getting it styled is just as time consuming).

I was able to contact Lola and ask her some tough questions, which she willingly answered! (Thanks Lola!) She'll be on BGLH tomorrow to expound on her position.

See, I DO listen to those emails you send (though they seem to be sucked into a vortex of nonresponsiveness...) It takes me a bit of time, but I try to get back to everyone ;)

Monday Style Icon (with tutorial): Kim

BGLH: Where are you from and what do you do?
K: I'm from Chicago. I'm a self-employed graphics consultant. I do everything from web design, book illustrations, real-time mindmapping, and conceptual design work like developing board games as learning tools for my corporate clients.

BGLH: When did you go natural? Why?
K: I first went natural 12 years ago. There are too many reasons to list! But mainly, I had some very bad experiences with relaxers, like excessive breakage, horrible chemical burns, scars and scabs, you name it! Back then, there weren't any hair forums so I'm one of those brave pioneers who transitioned back when there was no language, "best practices" or processes for it. Because of books, hair forums and Youtube, I've learned so much in the past 6 months alone. My hair is in the best shape and the longest it has ever been.

BGLH: What is the key to a good regimen?
K: I believe the key to a good regimen is patience, education, consistency and documentation.
Patience is important, because you will make mistakes along the way. You must have patience with your hair when washing and styling to prevent damage.

You should read as much as you can and learn how human hair really works. Like the vast majority of the population, I am a visual learner. I love books with illustrations and microscopic photos that teach me the fundamentals about hair. I strive to better understand not only the outer composition of hair, but also the chemical inner workings as well. I know that what makes my hair "feel" good may not always be what's best for it! Learning about ingredients and basic chemistry will help to make anyone a master of their own hair over time.

I say consistency because you should stick with what truly works. Not the latest fads. Of course, you should always keep an open mind and continuously learn about hair care.

Documentation is important because you'll never know what you're doing wrong/right unless you can remember what you've done!

BGLH: Why did you start a YouTube channel?
K: I started it because I felt I had something unique to contribute. Although I credit hair forums and Youtube as sources of great information, they are kind of all over the place with very little structure. Newbies get lost. Hair veterans get lost. There are so many opinions out there and since much of it is not based on science, people are often "bullied" into doing things that might not be good for their hair.

Like I mentioned above, I read about hair on a regular basis. I look for consistency and contradictions. I study illustrations and magnified hair strands. I've recently made it a goal to self-publish my own book about hair. I'm a graphic artist and I want to use my professional skills and talents to give back to the natural hair community.






One of Kim's signature looks is a style inspired by UK singer Corinne Bailey Rae.

Here's the tutorial.




Check out Kim's full YouTube channel here: http://www.youtube.com/user/kimmaytube

Sunday retrospective... Is New York reppin harder for natural hair??

So BGLH reader Kelly left this comment on the profile of our most recent style icon, Sharri from Harlem:

"Great style icon ! and also I notice that a lot of the featured naturals on this blog are from New York... or just NOT west coast at that. I'm in Riverside, California and I'm thinkin are we too caught up in the LA, Hollywood look over here? I know I chickened out and postponed my plan to wear natural hair because every black girl I know rocks a weave and or relaxer.."

I never really thought about that, but I found it SO interesting! So I went back into the BGLH archives and yes, a good number of our style icons and rock solid regimens are from New York. Most notably our lovely haircare expert; Jenny:




I also noticed that a good number of style icons/RSRs are from Southern states.

This blog is by no means representative of all natural women. But what do you think of this? Are some states more conducive to rocking natural hair than others??? California ladies; do you think the Hollywood culture prevents women from embracing their natural hair? For the rest of you; is your state reppin hard for the natural? Or are there things that make repping natural hair a bit harder in your state?

International ladies, what about the cities in your country?

Thanks Kelly for the thought provoking comment!

Video: Chris Rock talks "Good Hair" on Oprah

Chris Rock was on Oprah talking about his upcoming film.

I know this video is only a snippet, did anybody watch the whole show? What did you think.

Why do we get emotional when we talk about hair products?

So Rachel, our amazing guest product reviewer, just wrapped up a series on her top 15 drugstore conditioners. Afterwards I asked BGLH readers to weigh in on what they felt about the products that made it to Rachel's top 15. Yeh, we all have different textures and our hair responds to different things but it's always helpful, in my opinion, to discuss and compare notes.

Sooo for some reason people were getting kinda, how should I say... possessive? defensive? rude? when it came to giving their opinion, which really baffled me. I actually had to reject a few comments... and it wasn't even a retrospective post!

So I want to know; Why do people get so emotional when it comes to discussing hair products? Why do people get offended if "their product" doesn't make it to a top 15 list? Like honestly, I really want to know.

I have a theory on this. But I will reserve it until after I've heard your thoughts.

Also, I thought it would be helpful to post a close-up of Rachel's texture so you can get a sense of what she's testing these products on. (She is so cute, by the way!)



But yeh, I want to hear your two pence on this!!

***update @ 8:02 a.m. ... I wrote this in the comment box...

I find that we, in the natural hair community, want to pick and choose when we appreciate diversity. When it's about profiling different textures of hair, we're all about it. When it's talking products, for some reason the fractures begin.

There is no way that everything that works for Rachel will work for the rest of us. But it will work for some of us. And for those who it doesn't work for, there are plenty opportunities to discuss and compare notes. (It's called the comment box.)

Even in the little BGLH blogger trio consisting of J, Shari and I, we use TOTALLY different products. I have the kinkiest texture, which rules out many drugstore products for me. I have to stick with natural substances (cassia, castor oil, water, etc.) Meanwhile Shari can experiment wildly on her head. She has a looser texture and stronger hair.

When I heard the feedback on Rachel's post, I wondered if there was some underlying bitterness that Rachel does have a strong texture that can stand up better to silicones, sulfates, etc.

I find that the looser the texture, the easier it is to use products that were originally made for white/hispanic/asian/loose or straight textured women. While those of us with coarser textures (including myself) have to be more careful.

But I don't understand why this would cause bitterness, rudeness or anger. Rachel was very clear that her list was a SUBJECTIVE list. She mentioned that at the beginning of almost every post. I think having her on the site is a valuable way to get discussion on products started.

Rachel: Why I don't avoid mineral oil, sulfates or silicones

Rachel, our guest reviewer, waxes poetic on products every Friday.
For more from her check out her blog http://littlegoldenlamb. wordpress.com/
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Beloved readers, if you read my blog for any long period of time or glance at the brands I've reviewed it will quickly become clear that I do not shy away from parabens, mineral oil, sodium laurel sulfate (SLS), ammonium laurel sulfate (ALS) or silicones. L says~Many people consider these ingredients bad for hair, for various reasons. While I do rather enjoy more "natural" treatments (and have reviewed over 20 "Kitchen Products" and developed an alternative to the coconut/lime combo and dabbled in "Baking Soda Texturizers"), I also appreciate the benefits of cosmetic science and its creations.

Part of the reason for why my hair thrives while using these products is purely genetic. My hair is all but indestructible -relaxed or natural. While bone-laxed on occasion I would relax five times in one month (my hair is VERY resistant to relaxer, YES I used SUPER strength, eep!) AND color with permanent dye. My result? Soft, swinging, shiny, pin-straight hair, that grew without issue (save I kept cutting it as I was in love with bobs at the time). It's thick in strand and density, grows a bit faster than average and for whatever reason, doesn't tangle (while natural, that is). My scalp is rather easy to please as well. As long as it gets a rinse of water daily, it does not complain.

The other half of said reason is: knowledge. I've learned enough about products and ingredients and what my hair needs to resurrect it from anything I do to it (this has included relaxers and bleach...applied in the wrong order no less!).

Those together have allowed me to enjoy a variety of products, that utilize ingredients that are often demonized on a variety of hair forums without negative consequences.

Please note, beloved readers, if my scalp or hair texture was sensitive to any of them, I would not use them. It is also incredibly important to note ,that I have also learned how to use them in balance, with my hair's needs. BALANCE IS CRUCIAL, crucial, crucial!

For example, my hair will suffer a backlash of massive build up if I use a shampoo and leave-in with high amounts of silicones. Or a shampoo with high amounts of dimethicone, no matter what else I use it with. L says~Silicone and dimethicone coat the hair and can provide slip and shine but they can also prevent water from getting in. However, my hair MUST have dimethicone in some amount in my leave-in. My hair doesn't care for oil to be directly applied to it, thus silicones come to my rescue. If my co-wash conditioner has a great deal of dimethicone in it, my shampoo needs coco-betaine or a well formulated shampoo that includes SLS or ALS. L says~Sulfates are often used as detergents. They can also dry out the hair.

My hair will only tolerate mineral oil in co-wash conditioners or shampoo. Not in leave-ins (unless it is there, in small amount, simply to balance the formulation, not to actually cause some benefit to one's hair). Shampoos that contain SLS or ALS MUST have a fantastic formulation. Cheap shampoos will dry it out. Note, however, I wash DAILY. I can use strong SLS poos weekly, when using conditioner as a leave-in and in fact, I must, to prevent build-up. One may ask, "Why risk build-up in the first place?" When used in proper balance with other products in my regimen...there is no risk of build up. That and a fully natural regimen left my hair less than pleased and ate up far too much of my time.

It may seem odd or contradictory to many to that I eat a fully organic diet, don't drink a hint of alcohol, don't smoke, NEVER eat processed food, exercise daily and practice homeopathy...then use products with parabens. L says~Some researchers have linked parabens to cancer but nothing has been proven conclusively.While many a watchdog-group's website's fear-mongering has caught my attention (and others provided very useful information, without a subliminal message that there is government conspiracy to slowly kill us with a variety of toxic chemicals and I am thankful for them) I personally am not concerned about these. I do make a powerful effort to limit the amount of toxins I take in, but it is not my desire to endeavor to eliminate them all.

I stand in admiration of those who do manage to eliminate all toxins in their environment...if that is in fact possible. To all who do restrict their contact with these ingredients or any ingredients whether someone says they are "dangerous" or not, I commend you for taking charge of your health, being informed and choosing to take control of the future of your body. Applause all around! ^_^ Whatever we do as consumers to be informed and make decisions to better our health and hair based on research and not fear or misinformation should be applauded. As consumers we need to do far more of this. Women of color, should do this, even more so!

The important thing about these ingredients is your hair and scalp's INDIVIDUAL needs, how you use products that contain them and the formulations of products that contain them. I've blogged specifically about SLS/ALS, silicones, how to decipher an ingredient list and how important formulation is in a product. It is not a matter of a specific ingredient (unless you have an allergy to it of course!) being "bad" or "good", but its use within a product and the use of that product within your particular regimen that decides if it is "good" or "bad". Even then, it is only "good" or "bad" in relation to YOUR particular head of hair.

Thus, I wander from product to product based upon what it can offer my hair, not what is in it, per se.

There are specific ingredients natural and non natural my hair adores above others. There are one or two I do not tolerate, period (petroleum comes to mind, I've never found a beneficial use for it, for my particular head of hair, I'm not claiming it to be evil ^_^).

I will not buy a product that is made of dimethiconol, trimethicone, mineral oil, palm oil, urea, fragrance and little else!

On the other hoof, a product that has a smidge of mineral oil, coconut oil, avocado oil, polyquaternium-11, dimethiconol, olive oil, rosemary oil and honey will be in my cart with-the-quickness! ^_~
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What is your take on this? What are your thoughts?