Make the switch to the new website http://bglhonline

Hey faithful readers :) Just a reminder to make the switch and become a follower on our new site: http://bglhonline.com/.

See you over there!

Saturday Retrospective: Should we support BLACK haircare business?

http://bglhonline.com/2009/10/saturday-retrospective-should-we-support-black-haircare-business/

Start following the new BGLH! Do your switch today :)

Now and Then: Carnisha

http://bglhonline.com/2009/10/now-and-then-carnisha/

Start following the new BGLH! Do your switch today :)

Now and Then: Nkechi

http://bglhonline.com/2009/10/now-and-then-nkechi/


Start following the new BGLH! Do your switch today :)

Join the BGLH forum!

From haircare to careers to relationships, talk about it all in the BGLH forum!
It's a cool part of the new website that we just rolled out.
Check it out: http://bglhonline.com/forum/

We're not gone! We're moved :)

Hello everyone,

I've been getting messages from troubled BGLH readers who think that the blog has ended. It hasn't! We've just moved to www.bglhonline.com.

All of the posts from this blog have been transported over there, so it's the same content on a different site. You can still make comments, go through the archives, etc, etc. The new site also features a fast-growing forum where you can discuss haircare and other things.

I've already put up several posts on the new site, and to stay updated you should become a follower or subscribe to www.bglhonline.com. Many of you have already made the follower switch (about 140 people in two days), but I'd advise the rest of you to do the same. Things are moving quickly as we get adjusted to the new site, and you'll want to keep up.

So please do not worry! BGLH is still here and it's here to stay! We just needed a face lift and a little bit more space.

Much luv,
Leila

***What's been popping over at the NEW BGLH?***
Sierra, Style Icon from Texas
Rachel's Review of Real Aloe Organically Grown Spray
Preview of next week's style icons
My trim results
The lovely Janada from Australia
Meeting and greeting on the BGLH forum

Goodbye http://blackgirllonghair.blogspot.com...

This will be one of the the last posts on this space. Thanks for the great photos, great conversations and all the love!
....

See you over at ----------------------> www.bglhonline.com

***Update***

We've added a follower box to the new site! Please become a follower to stay posted on all we're doing!

what's your bedtime reggie?

Question for J from Chandra:
Hello Jenteel,
Thank you thank you thank you for your blog I must say first and foremost. I really can't thank you enough for all of the great information and inspiration. I am a singer songwriter currently living in Germany but from Florida. I have struggled with my hair and decisions as regards what to do with it nearly my entire life. After relaxing as an early teenager (I think my mother was just a bit fed up with it) and then of course same story having severe breakage, I then stayed in line with the black girl hair story and opted for weaves, usually always micros which went well. Spent one year in Nashville and before I left home I took all of my braids out and hadn't had my hair relaxed in almost 5 years. My hair was gorgeous. Of course I didn't know it then and immediately put a store bought relaxer in it (stupid stupid stupid) and got a sew in before my big move. But after about 6 months of constant straightening and the occasional kid relaxer, most of my hair in the front completely broke off.

I put the braids back in for my next journey to Europe which would allow me some versatility and then see what was happening in about 6 months. So I've been here in Berlin for exactly 3 months now and just couldn't stand it any longer. I felt like my hair was still suffering in the braids because it wasn't being washed adequately or deep conditioned ever ( because the micros would've come out). So after visiting your website several times, I was inspired to began the labor of love that so many smart and beautiful women of color have already embarked upon. I took all the micros out and looked at myself in the mirror, a bit uncomfortable with what I saw but decided I would deal with and love me (regardless of what my hair was doing..lol).

Are there any tips you would recommend as far as a daily night time routine? I just have no clue what to do with my hair at night..A good friend of mine braids it every night and then takes the braids out in the morning for curly fullness but I didn't know if that's what most natural girls do.

J's response:
Hi Chandra! Thank you for following BGLH. I'm glad you've been inspired to stick with the decision to go natural! I am honored to be 1/3 of this movement that is BGLH! How cool that you moved to Germany to make your dreams come true! All the best to you!

Now to your question! Most of you already know I'm a proponent of low manipulation so I don't braid or twist my hair every night. I try to do protective styles that last throughout the week refreshing at night only if necessary. Here's what I do before bed:

1) spritz my ends and scalp (a nice scalp massage on occasion)
2) add moisturizer to ends (refresh braids/twists if necessary)
3) seal ends with castor oil
4) put on my satin cap then it's beddie-bye time!

I like to call my nightly ritual "SMSP": Spritz Moisturize Seal Protect!
(you like that right-lol)

Spritz
The spritz is important because it hydrates the hair. For this I like to use floral waters, chamomile or sandalwood. I use floral waters so I don't have to worry about contaminants and chlorine in tap water (you can use filtered water if you wish). I keep the floral waters refrigerated and add to a spray bottle as needed. Besides smelling wonderful, my scalp feels so refreshed afterward! It's my daily aromatherapy :) Sometimes I mix the waters with panthenol (an idea suggested by Chicoro). If my hair is craving protein, I use my Aphogee Pro-Vitamin Leave-In Conditioner. You can use protein to help revitalize the hair, but unfortunately damaged hair must eventually be cut out. Click here for some ideas for a daily spritz ideas previously featured on BGLH!

Moisturize
Next is the moisturizer. I like to use a creamy water-based moisturizer (dr. bronner's magic organic lotion). I love how it seeps into my thick hair. It also softens the hair and makes it easier to detangle. When refreshing twists or braids, you can use a wide-tooth comb or detangle with your fingers.

Seal
For the sealant, your options aren't limited to just castor oil. Many naturals love coconut oil or hair butters like shea for sealing, especially for the shine that they impart not to mention the nutrient content.

Protect
Pin the hair up and sleep on a satin pillowcase or use a satin cap.

As you can see, my nightly routine is really simple making it easy to follow. Thanks for your submission Chandra! I thought your "before and after" pictures were especially great in light of the recent "then and now" posts (one of my favorite here at BGLH by the way - great submissions ladies!). Cute cute cute!

chandra then

chandra now!
So now it's your turn! Natural ladies give up the goods!
What's your nightly regimen?
~j~

Now and Then: Shontae

Shontae was one of 5 winners in our recent "Now and Then" giveaway.

"Becoming natural has been the catalyst to my appreciating more features and aspects unique to me and the black community." ~Shontae



I am originally from New Orleans, but I currently live in Richmond, VA...by way of Hurricane Katrina. I'm a single mom to my 8-year-old son and an engineer, who designs plumbing systems for a local A/E firm.

On going natural...
I did my own relaxers, trims, highlights/colors, roller wraps, etc. so I wasn't a slave to the salon. At the time, I thought that I took great care of my hair simply because I swore by magnetic rollers, didn't use flat irons, maybe bumped it with a curling iron once or twice a week, bunned, and deep-conditioned often.



However, the hair around my temples was/is fairly thin and I always seemed to reach a terminal length 2-3 inches past my shoulders.

Be it short or long, all I really wanted was thicker hair. So, I stopped getting a relaxer in early March '09. I did a mini-asymmetrical chop in April, but soon became tired of catering to my relaxed ends. My birthday was approaching and after having been downsized by my former employer, I just wanted to shed the old and start anew. I called a girlfriend of mine to come over one evening and help me with my big chop, 2 days before my 31st birthday in June. The following morning, I ended up going to a stylist to get it trimmed and faded and, soon after, I debuted my fresh teeny weeny afro at both my birthday gathering and my trip back home to New Orleans to visit family and friends. Now I'm coiled, spoiled...oh, and back to being employed. :)

A one word description of her transformation...
Vibrant... Becoming natural has been the catalyst to my appreciating more features and aspects unique to me and the black community.

How do you do black girl bangs?

I love bangs.

Back in my straight-hair days, bangs were my trademark. I was all about the sheeny (though ever-thinning) side-swoop. It was deep to me. Deep enough that I co-signed on this black and white, looking-off-into-the-distance shot taken of me in college, featuring my sheeny bangs.



But these days, making "bangs" mainly consists of me laying my hand down flat at the front of my head and forcing the hair down. I've had mixed success with keeping it down using headbands and such.

I would love to occassionally rock the hair-in-face look. So tell me ladies, how do you do your black girl bang? How do you get the hair in front to stay down and look cute? Have you even been able to do them since you went natural? Please share.

Monday Style Icon: Nia from Baltimore

Where are you from and what do you do?
N: I'm from Baltimore...and I'm in transition. I'll be a college student (somewhere, God willing) in the spring. But right now I work in a high school as a Project Intern for the Youth Development Unit.

When did you go natural? Why?
N: I'm natural by default. =) I had a relaxer once when I was like seven. And it took my hair out....never again.
My mom is natural so it was something that I knew I would probably follow.

My sister, my aunt and my cousin all began to lock and their hair was growing! My hair was short, in fact when I was really young I didn't even have hair..lol I remember the day I decided to lock my mom kept telling me how I was gonna watch my sister's hair grow and be mad, and that day I was supposed to get my hair done, which didn't happen. So i just declared, I'm gonna lock my hair. And that was the summer before sixth grade.

You're 17 and you've had locks for a long time now. How have people around you reacted to your hair?
N: In middle school, people thought I was Jamaican..lol But my friends love it. People tell me how cute and neat they are. It's funny, cause people randomly tell me when they see my hair, "I want locks," or "I'm tryna lock my hair". So..yeah. People are pretty in love with my locks. Lol.

What do you use in your hair?
N: To wash it I use a shampoo bar from a company called Wonderful Oils of the World. It has Tea Tree Oil, Thyme and Rosemary or I use Nadina's Shea Butter Shampoo and Conditioner. To lock I just use pure shea butter and I occasionally oil it with Sunflower and Olive Oil.

What style do you love to rock?
N: Umm..since it's been cut just straight, showing of my cut. I'm soo happy with it!



But I used to love to braid my hair, then take it out so it would be crinkly. That was two styles in one. And really convenient. I could swim in the braids and when i took them out, they'd be crinkly.




Why do you prefer natural hair to relaxed hair?
N: I really love the versatility of being natural, because you can still do a weave or press and still have your natural texture. When you perm, you lose that...and it takes a minute to get it back. And I never wanna lose my natural texture.

For more from Nia check out her blog.

Rachel's Review: Ahuacatl = Aguacate = Avocado

Also known as the “Butter Pear” or “Alligator Pear”, beloved readers, this rather homely fruit yields a rather attractive surprise: an oil that can enrich, health and nourish your scalp. It’s also one of three oils that actually penetrate the hair strand!

A healthy scalp is ultimately responsible for healthy hair (and a healthy body before that, but that, is another post, beloved readers). This is one oil, second and third only to Coconut and Olive oil in my oil roster, that despite its less than cute facade has a rather sexy history. Check the links referenced below or enjoy my paraphrase below.

Nahuatl is the language responsible for the word “ahuatl”, the avocado’s first moniker and it roughly means…erhm…”testicle”. It was seen as a fertility fruit in some indigenous South American societies . Let me paint the picture in as modest strokes as I can: If you had some of these in your basket you were more Pussycat Doll than Nun!

When the Spaniards met these lovely people (before destroying their culture and stealing their land, sigh, colonialism at its best 9.9), ahuatl became “aguacate”. Much easier to say, no? At least, after seven-plus-years of Spanish I can say it is.

When Americans blundered into this healthy-hair wonder, “aguacate” became mangled into “avocado”. Maybe it’s from having studied Spanish so long…but how on earth do you hear “AH-VO-CAH-DOE” in “AH-GWA-CAH-TAY”? I digress.

Why is this so fantastic for your scalp? A quick Google search will give you the dish, but I’ll give you some tidbits here.

As previously mentioned it sinks into the skin. This oil is HEAVY, HEAVY, HEAVY. A little dab will do you. Which is good, as it tends to be one of the pricier oils in large amounts.
It’s also a great source of Vitamin A, K, B1, E and B2 and D.

Why is that so fantastic?

Vitamin A, AKA, retinol (yes, the stuff that preserves your cuteness) is needed to help you eyes adjust to seeing in low-light situations and keeps your skin and other tissues moist (and hopefully wrinkle-free).

Vitamin K helps your kidneys do their various tasks and aids in blood clotting (a lack of this can show in dark circles, but these kind tend to be genetic, I speak from experience).

Vitamin B1, good old “thiamin” is necessary for energy conversion and aids in keeping your body’s systems running at top capacity.

Vitamin B2, which I think has a cute name: “riboflavin”, is vital for producing those oh-so-necessary red blood cells and aids in having healthy vision and radiant skin.

Vitamin D, the “sun vitamin” (another cheerful name ^_^) helps to facilitate the absorbtion of calcium.

Vitamin E is a powerful antioxidant.

It also has lecithin. Lecithin in the body improves mood and healthy circulation (also important for hair growth).

It contains potassium. This is vital for maintaining the body’s water balance (which you should drink plenty of daily for your health and hair).

It also contains amino acids. Amino acids act as the building blocks for many of the body's tissues and…HAIR.

Avocado oil has sterols. Plant sterols have been touted by the FDA for lowering cholesterol. This lovely (on the inside) fruit even has pantothenic acid and other essential fatty acids.

How pleasantly ironic such an ugly fruit packs a pretty punch, no? Having typed all of that, the best way to reap these benefits is to EAT them. Still, applying avocado oil topically is not without merit.

You can rub this on your skin after a shower, add it to a warm bath, use it to "seal" (more accurately, retard the evaporation of moisture) your ends, oil your scalp, or add it in small to moderate amounts to your usual deep conditioner. It can also be whipped into your curly pudding mixes. Yum. ^_^

I personally don’t apply it to the length of my hair as it is heavy and my hair hates direct oil usage to begin with. If I apply it straight it's scalp and ends only. Again, that is because of MY hair's preference. Please fulfill YOUR hair’s particular desires, beloved readers.

Ladies with a dry scalp may find this soothes many an issue.

I hope you give avocado oil a try. Its a great addition to my regimen when I want a break from my usual olive oil and coconut oil mix in my deep conditioners.

Also, beloved readers, just between me and you…if you slather your scalp and hair in this, sleep in it over night and wash lightly with a gentle shampoo in the morning…it’s like Christmas, New Year’s and your Birthday -on your head. Sans the crazy-with-a-capital-C, police sirens and party clean-up. ^_^

PET LOVERS! THIS COULD POTENTIALLY KILL YOUR BELOVED PETS! PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE do not let them lick, ingest or even sniff this in its oil form or in its original solid/fruit form.

Vitamin and nutrient info: HealthClininc.Com, Colorado University and Dr.David Williams (love this man!), jacn.org; Avocado History: avocado.org
---
Rachel, our guest reviewer, waxes poetic on products every Friday.
For more from her check out her blog http://littlegoldenlamb. wordpress.com/

Big changes at BGLH

We are in the process of switching things up at Black Girl With Long Hair and wanted to give everyone a heads up on what you should expect. Here's the list:

~ New site design, and a logo.
BGLH has recently hit over 1,000 followers and is almost 2 years old. Like Mr. Obama said, it's time for a change.

~ The site will be at a new address.
Bye, bye blackgirllonghair.blogspot.com

. We will reveal the location of the new blog once it goes live (very, very soon). For about a week or two, we will update both blogs and then put an address forward on the Blogger blog to take you to the new site.

~ We're moving from Blogger to Wordpress.
Blogger was great, but ultimately Wordpress offered a lot more tools and features so we can do bigger and better things, like the...

~ BGLH Forums
BGLH will now have it's own Forum so you can talk about hair (or not, if you like :)) We will have boards for a bunch of topics, including one for professional networking.

~ BGLH Store
Starting off, we will have 2 tee shirt selections on sale, designed by me (Shari), but will soon expand to include more items.

We're going to try and make this move as seamless as possible, so I'll give more details in the near future.

Shari
-Resident graphic designer

Help me pick a winner for the 'Now and Then' giveaway! UPDATE: We have 5 winners!

More than 25 ladies entered, and now I have to pick 5 to receive a copy of Chris-Tia's book, "Thank God I'm Natural." As you remember, the giveaway was in honor of the book's author, who went from wigged up to natural.

In choosing a winner, I'm looking for

a. how dramatic the change was and
b. and how well the ladies are working the new look.

The winners will also receive a style icon profile.

Please look through the photos (the two posts before this one) and give your thoughts!

I'll decide a winner at noon, then we'll return to our regularly scheduled program ;) This was definitely an AWESOME diversion! I am amazed that so many women sent photos in! And yes, I will DEFINITELY continue doing this on BGLH!

***WINNER UPDATE!***
So I decided to pick the first 4 winners based on number of votes and a 5th winner at random

The winners are:
Chantel
Shontae
Busayo
Kasey
Tammy

Congrats to all of you!

Now and Then giveaway photos, part 2

Part 1 here

Kasey Then and Now



Jennifer Then and Now



Busayo Then and Now



Monique Then and Now



Brenda Then and Now



Kat Then and Now (back of afro puff)



Yolanda Then and Now

Now and Then giveaway photos coming in!!! Check it out!!!

We've already gotten some AMAZING photos.
In case you're out of the loop, this is from the post below...

"Chris-Tia, the recently profiled Harvard lawyer and author just let me know that she is giving away 5 copies of her book "Thank God I'm Natural." So let's turn it into a giveaway!
In honor of Chris-Tia, who went from wigged up to natural, I want you to submit photos of your hair BEFORE and AFTER you went natural. Submit photos to contro_versial@hotmail.com (put 'Now and Then' in the header.) I will post the best ones as I receive them throughout the day."

Here's what we have so far... and keep checking! This is being updated constantly:

Courtney Then and Now...



Janee Then and Now...



Amanda Then and Now...



Maxine Then and Now



Chantel Then and Now



Shontae Then and Now



Ada Then and Now



Nkechi Then and Now



Brittany Then and Now



Bernadette Then and Now



Miss Fizz Then and Now



Gisele Then and Now



Tammy Then and Now



Rachella Then and Now



Carnisha Then and Now



LaDonna Then and Now



Malaika Then and Now



Nicole Then and Now



Ashley Then and Now



Samantha Then and Now



Submit your photos to contro_versial@hotmail.com with 'Now and Then' in the header!

ETA: Part 2

We interrupt our regularly scheduled program for the "Now and Then" giveaway compliments of Chris-Tia

Chris-Tia, the recently profiled Harvard lawyer and author just let me know that she is giving away 5 copies of her book "Thank God I'm Natural." So let's turn it into a giveaway!


In honor of Chris-Tia, who went from wigged up to natural, I want you to submit photos of your hair BEFORE and AFTER you went natural. Submit photos to contro_versial@hotmail.com (put 'Now and Then' in the header.) I will post the best ones as I receive them throughout the day.

Jump on it ladies! And thanks Chris-Tia for the books!

the moisturizing masterbook (courtesy of j!), pt 1

This series was originally posted in February (2/5/09) but as winter approaches, I think we all need to have MOISTURE on our minds. This is me trying to get my moisture on with a pineapple wrap...


***
2/5/2009

so, a few weeks ago, jenteel (our resident hair expert for some months now...) put together a bomb package on our favorite topic; moisturizing!

in a prophetic twist, i realized that i needed a new daily moisturizer soon after she completed the article. so, this article is as much for me as it is for you. here's part 1.

***
As winter sets in, we at BGLH thought it would be important to focus on moisturizing techniques as we brave the sometimes unforgiving winter weather. All the hard work done throughout the year can be diminished if one does not incorporate some “winterproofing” into our hair regimens :)

IT BEGINS ON THE INSIDE...

As far as hair health, I will begin with the internal - the most important. Yes, what you put into your body reflects on the outside; especially important for most of us concerned with the beauty aspects of hair, skin, and nails.

Water: The amount of water you consume actually varies by person. I don’t stick to the “8 glasses a day” rule because we are all different. You should drink a little less than half your body weight in ounces of water per day. If you exercise, you should add 16 oz to the total for every 45 minutes of strenuous activity. For every ounce of caffeinated beverage that you drink, you need to drink and additional 2 oz of water.

Fruits/ Vegetables: Try to consume fruits and veggies with a high water content; red-orange fruits and veggies, leafy greens, citrus & berries.

Vitamins/Minerals: Vitamin A, C, E, zinc, selenium, and omega-3 fatty acids. Omega-3s are very important. For vegetarians who don’t eat fish/fish oils, try nuts/oils like macadamia, walnuts & almonds.

Useful Supplements: MSM, Spirulina, Silica & DHA.

WHAT YOU PUT INTO IT...

No-poo / Co-wash: This is a technique popularized by Lorraine Massey in her book, “Curly Girl - The Handbook: A Celebration of Curls: How to cut them, care for them, love them, and set them free”. The premise for this technique is that most shampoos contain harsh, drying sulfates that are extremely damaging for curly hair (ammonium laureth sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, etc.). They make curly hair frizzy and uncooperative. Using conditioner in place of shampoo will cleanse the hair just as effectively without stripping it of moisture. Gentle shampoos that contain mild cleansers (i.e. cocamidopropyl betaine or coco betaine) can be used occasionally.

Deep Conditioning Treatments: You can make these treatments yourself or purchase commercial conditioners that contain one of more of the following ingredients: honey, botanical extracts, shea butter, avocado oil, olive oil, castor oil, sunflower oil etc. INGREDIENTS TO AVOID: mineral oil & petroleum which coats the hair and prevents moisture from getting in. A good conditioner should flatten the cuticles and fill in rough spots, thereby smoothing the hair surface. It should also provide good lubrication so that hair glides over each other avoiding snags and breakage. This is where slip becomes important. Slip describes how easy it is to get the comb thru the hair strands. Leave in a deep conditioner for 30 minutes to an hour with heat, longer without.

Oils: Coconut and olive oils are known to penetrate the hair shaft easily, but make sure to mix the oils with even a little bit of water to really penetrate the cuticle. Jojoba oil is similar to our own sebum so this works well on the scalp and as a sealant.
***
there is SOOO much more, but we'll do bits at a time.
thoughts?

Harvard Law School graduate and author Chris-Tia: I nearly lost my job because of my wig obsession

After accepting a position at one of the top law firms in the nation straight out of Harvard Law School, I felt major pressure to blend in with my white colleagues. I was working long hours and felt like I needed to be a younger version of the ultra beautiful, super smart, and sophisticated Claire Huxtable (from “The Cosby Show”) in order to truly be accepted by my white co-workers. Had I been practicing law for fifteen years and gained a strong reputation by this point, I might have felt more at ease with my decision to wear my hair natural. Unfortunately, there were only two black women in my department and I was one of them. I wasn’t exactly looking to complicate matters by putting on my dashiki and rocking Bantu knots to my first client meeting.

I knew I needed to let go and stop wearing a wig -- but after two years of waking up every morning and putting one on, I couldn’t stand the sight of myself without my synthetic tresses. Day in and day out, I would constantly make excuses to myself as to why I couldn’t wear my natural hair uncovered: My hair isn’t long enough. I don’t know what products to use. It only takes me five minutes to get ready in the morning. My colleagues would talk about me. My boyfriend would dump me. No one would ever find me attractive.

Chris-Tia's wig


To make matters worse, I had gotten used to having long silky, straight hair -- which drew compliments daily. After getting a perm for twenty-plus years, I didn’t know the first thing about caring for my natural texture. I had no clue what products or styling tools to use or how to work with the tight, spongy curls sitting atop my head. Learning to do my hair was like teaching myself Swahili. I simply didn’t know where to begin.

Then there was the issue of seeing the reactions of my friends and co-workers who would now know that I had been wearing some kind of extensions for the past two years. While my hair had grown quite long, it wasn’t silky or straight. Instead, it looked dry and dull -- like week-old cotton candy, because I had kept it covered for so long.

In addition to my apprehension over my dramatic change in appearance and the styling difficulties that came along with it, for the first time in my life, I also had to deal with the daily challenge of seeking a new job after my boss informed me that my work fell quite short of meeting my department’s expectations. Needless to say, wearing a wig had taken a major toll on my self-esteem, and was affecting me on many levels, both personally and professionally.

Ironic, isn’t it? It turned out that wearing a wig had made very little difference after all -- and hadn’t spared me from being told that I didn’t have a future with my firm. After putting so much time and effort into appeasing my conservative white colleagues, it hadn’t truly helped or changed anything. In hindsight, I should have pulled a Jill Scott or Erykah Badu on my very first day at my law firm and spent the countless hours I had invested worrying about my appearance into focusing on my job performance. If only I had known and appreciated then how truly beautiful my own, natural hair is – it would have saved me so much heartache, expense, and wasted energy. I walked away from the firm with my pride wounded, however, much more importantly, with the realization that my own lack of confidence and esteem lay at the heart of my failure. This truth was much more painful than the simple disappointment of coming close to being fired.

After several months of working tirelessly to find a new position, God stepped in and blessed me with a new job, where I felt like I could not only be myself, but that I also had the potential to become a tremendous asset to the firm’s already outstanding talent. After gladly accepting the job, I was amazed at how comfortable I was with my decision to wear my hair natural on the very first day. Surprisingly enough, I was given more opportunities and received better mentoring than I did at my first firm. Due to the change in professional atmosphere, I was finally able to prove my talent and dedication to my work. This was a welcome change from my first law firm, where I fought so desperately to accommodate society’s unattainable beauty standard for black women (and not my own).

The more I loved and accepted my natural hair, the more people applauded my work and complimented me. This sense of confidence and pride in my appearance had a profound effect on every aspect of my world. I began to realize that in the past, the only thing truly preventing me from being happy and fulfilling every aspect of my dream was merely my conception of myself. Once I realized that I didn’t need to keep buying into the unhealthy and consuming expectation of appearance, my own job performance started to thrive. Today, I don’t think twice about wearing my hair natural and have finally come to fully appreciate the beauty and uniqueness of my kinky mane. When I put on my favorite suit and walk into a client meeting, I know it doesn’t matter how I wear my hair. My opinions will be respected and heard. My relationships with my colleagues, both black and white, have never been better. And, strangely enough, some of our most interesting conversations have been about the uniqueness and beauty of black hair.

My natural journey has taught me many lessons -- but most importantly, that we, as black woman, must embrace our unique differences and traits and no longer be ashamed of who we truly are. It has taken me close to twenty-five years to accept my hair for what it really is, but now, I can now finally say, THANK GOD I’M NATURAL!

Chris-Tia Donaldson, a Detroit native who currently lives in Chicago, is author of the book "Thank God I'm Natural," which comes highly recommended by stylists and beauty bloggers. She was recently interviewed on Chicago station WGN and will be holding a book signing on November 1 from 2 to 4 p.m. at the AfriWare book store in Oak Park, Illinois. For more information, check http://thankgodimnatural.wordpress.com/

Style Icon: GG from Maryland

"The process of transitioning taught me that anything is possible and helped me see many other ideas and misconceptions that had been programmed into my thinking without me realizing it. My hair reminds me of how much I've grown and all the changes I've gone through over the last few years and I love it." ~ GG




Where are you from and what do you do?
GG: I currently live in Maryland. By day, I manage financial intermediary relationships at a mutual fund company, and my workplace is a very conservative environment. By night, I'm a busy mom, significant other, problem solver, superwoman extraordinare. In between, I love to write and blog every chance I get.

When did you go natural? Why (especially since you had long relaxed hair)?
GG: I got my last relaxer in February of 2006 after I had my daughter. My hair was long, I guess according to most definitions, but it was also really thin and damaged. I started off by just stretching my relaxer attempting to get it healthy. After 6 months, I was so in love with my new growth and how soft and curly it was, that I just kept going. I needed a change.

I've always had long-ish hair but it's always been a cycle of growth and breakage then more growth and breakage. As a teenager, I was only allowed occasional relaxers (maybe 2-3 times a year) and my hair was thick and long back then. So, thinking back to those days made me want to see what my hair would do if I stopped relaxing. Underneath all of that, I was getting close to 30 and going through all kinds of identity issues. I felt myself changing on the inside and wanted to reflect it on the outside.

What style do you love to rock?
GG: My favorite style to rock is a picked out braid or twist out. After co-washing, I braid or twist my hair in about 8-10 sections and put satin rollers at the end. When it's dry, I take the braids/twists out and pick it out with the end of a rat tail comb or a metal pick. This gives me crazy volume and density. I may wear a headband or scarf or pin it this way or that way in the front. Throughout the day, it just gets bigger and bigger. I love how the air makes it expand and look even bigger and more unruly. At night, I put it in a ponytail like a pineapple on top of my head and it will last like that a of couple days with a little refreshing as needed.



What do you use in your hair?
GG: I'm constantly trying new products as my budget allows, but I swear by shea butter/coconut oil mix! My hair has never felt so moisturized before using coconut oil. It has changed the game. I also use Aussie Moist conditioner for cowashes, Hair One sulfate-free shampoo, Setting Lotion (Dark&Lovely, Lottabody, whatever!) and Herbal Essences Long-Term Relationship Leave-In Conditioner for my ends. I always pre-condition my hair with coconut oil mixed with some type of conditioner...whatever I have around. I also dust my ends atleast a couple times a month when I twist or braid. I wear protective styles most of the time, but when I feel like it, I'll blow dry and do dry braid-outs or flat iron and do dry roller sets or pin curls with setting lotion.

Do you prefer natural to relaxed?
GG: NATURAL!!!!!! Mainly, because it's fuller and thicker and I've always wanted BIG hair. I just never thought that I could actually achieve big hair without its groupies Frizz and Dry coming along with it! Plus, I just love the texture and versatility that I have now.

I feel more unique and creative with natural hair. I don't have to fight the elements anymore and I don't have to continue the cyle of growth and breakage from chemicals and over-processing. The process of transitioning taught me that anything is possible and helped me see many other ideas and misconceptions that had been programmed into my thinking without me realizing it. My hair reminds me of how much I've grown and all the changes I've gone through over the last few years and I love it.

For more of the lovely GG check out her two blogs; http://www.peaceloveprettythings.blogspot.com/ and http://thewritecurldiary.blogspot.com/

Natural hair in the media: Louis Vuitton Spring 2010 show features white models with oversized afros UPDATED

Louis Vuitton models at Paris Fashion Week

Marc Jacobs, the creative director for LV is quoted as saying that the collection was "about travelers—the movement that came after punk. Then we were thinking about hiking, trekking, and then denim and parkas—city utilitarianism."
A full story is here. I'll let you guys add your own caption to this one. What do you think?

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Excerpt from Newsweek article on Zahara Jolie's hair written by Allison Samuels;



"But even the mothers who spare the hot comb still have to put time and effort into keeping hair healthy: Any self-respecting black mother knows that she must comb, oil, and brush her daughter’s hair every night. This prevents the hair from matting up, drying out, and breaking off. It also prevents any older relatives from asking them why you’re neglecting your child and letting her run around looking like a wild woman. Having well-managed hair is not just about style, it’s about pride, dignity, and self-respect. Keeping your daughter’s hair neat is an unspoken rule of parental duties that everyone in the community recognizes and respects.
.
Hair that is nice, neat, and cared for also gives African-American girls the confidence that they can fit into the world at large without being seen as completely different. One truism of childhood is that nothing is more important than being like everyone else. Well, as like everyone else as you can be with Hollywood parents. But not all people will recognize Zahara as the child of movie royalty. To many, she’ll be just a black little girl—and a black girl with bad hair at that.

In recent pictures it's clear Angelina Jolie hasn’t taken the time to learn or understand the long and painful history of African-American women and hair. If she had I can’t imagine she would continue to allow Zahara to look like she has in the past few months. Photos of Zahara show the 4-year-old girl sporting hair that is wild and unstyled, uncombed and dry. Basically: a “hot mess.’’

African American blogs and forums such as Media Takeout, Black Hair Media and even mainstream outlets like TMZ have been on fire the past few weeks demanding to know why Angelina won’t just comb Zahara’s hair? Each blog receives hundreds of e-mails every time they run a picture of the little girl with her hair uncombed. "I just hope that they realize she has different hair needs and find someone black who can keep her hair looking good,” said a commenter on Bossip.com. "Angie, if you can’t comb hair then get someone who can. This is ridiculous now. Your hair is always in place and so is Shiloh’s. Why does Zahara have to always look like she just woke up?" writes a commenter on TheFabLife.com."

I'm sorry Allison, but I'm not seeing how Zahara has "bad hair". She looks cute to me. Her hair looks shiny — a good sign — and it probably stands up like that because it's a cross between a curly and kinky texture.

I stand corrected: Drugstore conditioners can work on ANY texture

So, on a recent post I made the following very unscientific observation:

"I find that the looser the texture, the easier it is to use products that were originally made for white/hispanic/asian/loose or straight textured women. While those of us with coarser textures (including myself) have to be more careful."

JC, a chemist who blogs over at The Natural Haven had a different take. Peep it:

What is the purpose of hair conditioner?

Contrary to popular opinion, hair conditioner is designed not for a particular hair type but rather to give you an effect. This is because structurally hair is hair is hair. Yes I am saying my African hair is the same as my Asian friends’s hair or my Caucasian husband’s hair.

What exactly is in hair conditioner?

Hair conditioner is mostly water with some conditioning agents.

What do conditioning agents do?

It depends on the amount and type of agent but they have a huge range of roles from smoothing the cuticle, filling gaps, temporarily sealing split ends, creating ‘slip’, reducing frizz, giving a feeling of softness……..the list is endless.

My best advice for picking a hair conditioner

You need to read the claim on the conditioner. This is just as important as knowing the top 5 ingredients.

For example, if your hair feels dry, I would say, PASS on a conditioner which promises glossy shiny curls and go for one which says it is designed for dry hair even if the ingredients include parts that you may not like. Why? You may actually like the result better because the conditioner is formulated (meaning a person (often a scientist for big brands) is paid to mix up the correct amount and type of ingredients) intended for your problem.

I hear you ask…….Are hair conditioners not tested on certain ethnicities?

Yes the vast majority are tested on brown Caucasian hair because this can be distinguished from bleached blonde hair and there is more of it (tests are usually done in a lab setting on cut pieces of hair). This does not mean a conditioner will not work for your hair because the cuticle which is the part that hair conditioner affects the most is nearly identical across the races.

But I do have one last question/observation; If it is true that kinkier textures are more fragile than straighter/looser curled texture. And if it is true that many drugstore conditioners contain harsh products (sulfates, silicones, etc), then could it be true that looser textures stand up better to drugstore conditioners than kinkier textures? What do you think? Weigh in!

And check out JC's blog!

Monday Style Icon: Andrea of Fly (with tutorial)

Andrea maintains Fly, one of the most popular graphic design blogs on the Web which features a daily mashup of fashion, art and design. I'm happy to have her here on BGLH!



Where are you from and what do you do?
A: I'm originally from Maryland but now call Philadelphia my home. I am a graphic designer, illustrator, and blogger.

Some of Andrea's designs




Your blog is amazing. Where did you get the idea for it?
A: I discovered blogging back in 2006 and thought it was such an amazing way to share my design inspiration. At the time I couldn't find too many blogs that spoke to women of color and felt I could help fill that void.

How do you find all this randomly cool stuff?!
A: I find my posts by doing research online, reading magazines and newspapers, and talking to other creatives. A lot of the times I don't have to look, I get a lot of links and info sent to me which is always great.

I hope that anyone can visit Fly and feel they can find something they love enough to come back for more. But my main target is women of color interested in creative inspiration. After working in creative industries for years I often found that I was the only person of color in the room. We need more diversity in creative fields. Therefore, I hope that Fly can expose those who don't often see themselves in these roles and help them realize that they can pursue these wonderful, lucrative opportunities of creative expression.

When did you go natural and why did you do it?
A: Unlike many others, I didn't have too many problems with my permed hair; my hair wasn't visibly damaged, it looked healthy, and I did it myself so I didn't spend a lot of money or time at the salon. But who knows what it was doing to my subconscious, so after having a perm for most of my life I felt it was time to allow my hair to do it it's natural thing. I went natural in 2001 after being tired of wearing the same flat-ironed wrap that I felt made me look like everyone else. After about a year of indecision, I walked into a barbershop and said "I'm ready." Minutes later I was walking out of there with a low-cut and a sharp shape-up. I just wanted to look and try something different and also be good to myself and my hair.



What's your regimen?
A: Every week I wash my hair, twist it wet, and wear it like that for a few days before doing my twist out 'fro. Sometimes I'll pin-up my twists for a little variation. Quite honestly I need to experiment with new hairdos. I miss when it was short and didn't have to do much of anything, I might make that move again soon.


Andrea's fro tutorial: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K5-7HH7gakE



Do you prefer natural to relaxed?
A: I prefer natural because it's healthier and more unique. To me, it takes a lot more work and patience to deal with natural hair (especially if it's long) but it really is worth it because it's beautiful. AND it's versatile, I can get it pressed and wear it like that for a while and then go back to the natural (the press only lasts a week for me, after that week I'm always over the hair being in my face). With that said I don't knock anyone for getting a perm, a hair journey is personal and although I can try to inspire someone to go natural, it's something they have to decide and feel comfortable enough to do on their own.

Malon: 17 years old and a style icon

Where are you from and what do you do?
M: I'm from Los Angeles California. I'm a student. This year I'm a Senior WOOP WOOP! I love writing, photography, art, and fashion. I'm a slam poet. In the future I want to own and distribute my own magazine!

You're only 17. Do you realize that you're further along with this 'natural hair thing' than women twice your age?
M: Yes I feel like being younger is actually a benefit. Lots of older women carry baggage that we as the younger generation don't have. They were told their hair is their crown and glory, that Black people couldn't get jobs if their hair was "nappy." I don't neccesarily harbor feelings like that, so it was an easier transition for me.

Have you been natural all your life?
M: You can kinda sorta say that. My mother never allowed me to relax my hair. I always wanted to because I thought as a black girl that's just what you did. I'm really thankful for my parents because they never let me fall into that good hair/bad hair thing... My dad would always say good hair is hair that's on your head. Even though I still straightened my hair my parents planted the seeds that would eventually help me liberate myself.

Do you see other naturals your age?
M: YES! Like I said earlier it is less of a cultural taboo in my generation. Mostly all of my friends are natural or wear their hair out naturally. I love the fact that us as black people are accepting ourselves for who we are and not feeling 'less than'... I feel like even if you want to straighten your hair, as long as you accept who you are and its not some subconcious self hate thing, go right on ahead. I will admit that I liked being the only one natural and now that so many other people are doing it I stand out less. But I'll sacrifice my indivuality for the advancement of our race, haha.

Wise words from a cutie. Check out Malon's blog; adollarormore.blogspot.com

Chris Rock's "Good Hair": Your Reactions

So I saw Good Hair on Friday... Unfortunately I was late to the meetup. It was raining in Chicago Friday and you KNOW what that means for traffic!!! I slipped into the theater as the beginning credits were rolling and asked a few women if they were "from BGLH". They looked at my like I was crazy, so at the end of the movie I just stood conspicuously in the theater lobby, hoping that someone would recognize me and walk up. No one did. But for those of you who came, I was the girl in the brown coat standing beside a curly-headed girl (my friend Niccole), looking hella obvious....

IN ANY CASE, for those of you who saw the movie this weekend, what were your reactions to the film???!

I didn't agree with all the conclusions Chris Rock came to, but I thought that his research was impeccable. I would have liked some clearer sourcing for the statistics he cited. But overall I really feel that it is a ground breaking film.

I'm going to turn it over to you? Did you see the film? What did you think? (For those of you who haven't seen it, I'm sorry for the spoilers that are sure to come. You should go out to see it regardless!!)

Preview of monday style icon: Andrea from Philly

Andrea maintains Fly, one of the most popular graphic design blogs on the web. Check our her full profile Monday.

Wednesday Style Icon? Yes!

Our style icon series has really taken off! More and more women from all around the country and world are emailing in with their photos and thoughts on natural hair.

I have been really honored to profile some AMAZING women on this site, and because of the increased influx I will add Wednesday as I day that I profile icons. Not all Wednesdays, but many.

Our upcoming Wednesday icon is G.G.



In the very first BGLH post I ever did I mention that after shaving all my hair off, I searched the media for hair inspiration and found very, very little. So it's exciting that now, you all are hair inspiration for me and the women who check BGLH. (Take your hand, put it on your shoulder and pat.)

Being a style icon has nothing to do with hair length or texture and everything to do with uniqueness, imagination and creativity.

I'm trying to working up to icon status myself. My hair is not *quite* there yet (I don't want to do a profile and be put on blast on my own enterprise... not that that would happen, but still) but I'm working my way there...



Thanks guys for supporting the site and keep the profiles coming!

Rachel's Review: Oils that penetrate hair

Beloved readers, if you’ve followed me for a bit, you know I am very for adding oils to deep conditioners. Oils, by themselves (on clean hair) can be used as a deep conditioner (the infamous “hot oil treatment” comes to mind, but one doesn’t have to heat up the oils from the start if your fear scalp burns). It is best to use coconut, avocado or olive oils for this. Why? They actually penetrate the hair strand.

The Beauty Brains, reference a particular study that found these oils do actually penetrate the hair shafts and others do not. My disclaimer for the Beauty Brains is as follows: I don’t agree with everything they’ve stated, as I’ve had experiences that have been to the contrary of things they’ve noted. That said, they’re more than willing to give you their credentials as cosmetic scientists.

You can read the whole article here, or my cliff notes version below on the penetrative abilities of these three oils:

“. . .Yes, studies have shown that coconut oil actually penetrates the hair to help make it stronger.

And as it turns out, olive oil also has penetrating properties. Scientists at the Textile Research (J. Cosmet.Sci 52, 169-184, 2001) tested Olive oil, Avocado oil, Meadowfoam seed oil, Sunflower oil, and Jojoba oil.

Their results showed that straight chain glycerides like olive oil easily penetrate into the hair.

Polyunsaturated oils , like Jojoba oil, are more open in their structure so they don’t pass through the layers of cuticles very well.

What does that mean in plain English?

Olive and Avocado oils penetrate all the way into the hair shaft.

Meadowfoam seed oil partially penetrates, and jojoba and sunflower oils don’t penetrate at all. . . .”
-Left Brain

More information on each of these oils particular properties are to follow in the coming weeks.

Until then, want to do a simple treatment?

1. Mix equal parts of any of these or use one straight.
2.Apply enough to coat hair.
3.Apply a plastic shower cap for at least an hour or overnight.
4.Rinse THOROUGHLY. You may need to rinse with tea or co wash with your preferred conditioner (even possibly lightly shampoo) to fully remove excess oil (but not all of its oily goodness! ^_~)
5. Enjoy healthier hair! The more you use them…the better. ^_^

Until next time! We'll explore properties of each of these oils individually in the coming weeks.
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Rachel, our guest reviewer, waxes poetic on products every Friday.
For more from her check out her blog http://littlegoldenlamb. wordpress.com/

BGLH Meetups to watch "Good Hair" on Friday

Chicago
ICE Theatres Chatham 14,
210 West 87th Street,
Chicago, IL 60620,
(773)783-8711,
6:20 p.m. showing

St. Louis
AMC West Olive Theater
12657 Olive St
Creve Coeur, MO 63141
Time to be announced
contact: caramelpisces@sbcglobal.net

Los Angeles
National Amusements The Bridge: cinema de lux
6081 Center Drive, Los Angeles, CA 90045
7:45 p.m. Friday showing. It will cost $2 to park.
contact: angelina.ucla@gmail.com
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Please take photos at your meetup and submit them to contro_versial@hotmail.com

Interview: New York designer Nilea Alexander

Nilea Alexander is a designer getting major buzz in New York. A graduate of the Parsons School for Design she created her first collection in 2004, runs a vintage booth at the Brooklyn Flea Market called NileA P FleA, and has done freelance design work for Urban Outfitters.

She was recently featured as "Girl of the Month" on Urban Outfitters' blog and just finished her newest collection, Underground Love Story, which she described in her UO interview as "a dark and romantic line of clothing inspired by my personal vintage collection."

Nilea's work has been covered by Daily Candy, Women's Wear Daily, Daily News, and Metro News and last month's cover of Ready-Made magazine featured Underground Love Story.



BGLH: First a little background: Where are you from?
NA: I am originally from Atlanta GA. I moved to New York in 2002 soon after I finished college at Georgia State and currently live in Crown Heights, Brooklyn.

BGLH: So about the infamous Urban Outfitters interview... How did you get hooked up with that?
NA: I have done freelance artist design projects for Urban Outfitters in the past and they carried one of my collections a few years ago. I was excited to be chosen for their “Girl of the Month” blog interview.

BGLH: The Urban Outfitters interview raised your profile in the blogosphere. Were you expecting that?
NA: Not really to be honest. I know that Urban Outfitters Blog is huge and that they have a lot of readers but I never really expected for other bloggers to contact me from that article.

BGLH: Tell me about your designing! How did you get started and where are you at right now?
NA: I have been designing for well over 10 years now. I started in high school home economics class in which I learned how to sew and then began making prom and cocktail dresses for friends.

When I moved to New York and enrolled in a design program at Parsons I started designing lingerie. A few years later with a friend I was designing a remade vintage line that was eventually picked up by Urban Outfitters. Now I currently design my solo collection Underground Love Story.

BGLH: How would you describe your design aesthetic? And what inspired it?
NA: My current collection is called Underground Love Story, a dark and romantic collection, inspired by the turn of the century Victorian era. Ultra feminine with big sleeves, bows, and ruffles the pieces are whimsical and made to inspire that feeling.
Nilea's Underground Love Story collection




BGLH: Where are your clothes sold?
NA: The website for the collection is www.undergroundlovestory.com. Currently the pieces from the lookbook are only sold wholesale. We are currently building a online retail webstore so that pieces can be sold individually. I am very excited about that and am planning a big launch for new store.

BGLH: When did you go natural and why?
NA: My hair has been natural since college and I just never went back. Its no big story actually, I had damaged it so much from over-processing that I really had no choice but to chop if off. It's just easier this way.

BGLH: How do you normally wear your hair?
NA: I change it up from time to time between an afro and a short box shape. I always keep the blond bleach stripe no matter what. I have had it for so long now I can not imagine myself without it.

BGLH: Where did you get the idea for the stripe?
NA: Gosh I really don't remember i feel like it just morphed into this. It started out as a dark brown patch..nothing special and then I lightened it to a dark honey blonde, then I lightened it again to a light blonde, and voila I started to bleach it.



BGLH: What do you like best about being natural?
NA: It's easy and it’s the hair that God gave me. I think that the blond patch has become a refection of me because it is how people have come to recognize me. I like that!
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Thank you Nilea! You, your hair and your designs are awesome!

You can find Nilea's line here; http://www.undergroundlovestory.com/.
Her blog here; http://www.undergroundlovestory.blogspot.com/.
Her flea market booth here; http://www.myspace.com/nileapvintage

Also, Nilea will be doing a flea market this Sunday Oct 11th at Bembe in Williamsburg Brooklyn from 3 - 8 selling remade vintage pieces. Be sure to check it out! Tell her BGLH sent you ;)