When natural, it is easy to talk about "the burden". The "burden" of getting weird looks, the "burden" of losing job opportunities over hair, the "burden" of being mocked and reviled.
But [insert cool track-rewinding sound]
Let's stop and rewind for a second...
Didn't we feel a "burden" when we were relaxed/flat ironed/texturized?
Didn't we deal with the "burden" of spending hundreds on chemical straighteners and Dominican blow outs, the "burden" of pandering to a standard of beauty we didn't originate, the "burden" of not allowing ourselves to be authentic and free...
So, are we just trading one burden for another?
Or are we looking at natural hair through the wrong lens altogether.
I decided to nix the work styles giveaway because I didn't want to add an artificial burden to the natural experience.
Are there instances where women lose their jobs over natural hair? Sure.
But I'm guessing that doesn't happen to 98% of BGLHers.
Why?
Well, take a look at the women who follow this blog.
There are lawyers, scientists, public health workers, journalists, thespians, teachers, corporate employees, defense industry workers, counselors, aerospace industry workers, and this doesn't count the numerous college and university students, and bright high school kids.
And I've written about this before — how the "natural hair movement" as evidenced on blogs/Fotki/hair forums, seems to be concentrated among educated, middle and upper-middle class women.
So, it seems to me that we've already "arrived" at these jobs that we claim we're somehow losing because of our hair.
Now, when a real incidence of natural hair discrimination occurs, I will be the first in line with a 'fro and a picket sign, but we have got to be honest with ourselves, and separate real issues from minor complaints. It is NOT real discrimination when Susy the secretary compliments you profusely on the day you come in with your hair flat-ironed, and not on the 364 other days you rock some twists.
The thing is, more often than not, being natural is not a struggle...
Being natural is freedom, and let us not forget why we did it in the first place.
Now, let me say that I write this retrospective having lived in the Caribbean and the United States, and as a college-educated woman. Naturally, I can't understand the experiences of those from other countries, or those who go natural in a low-income context. And I welcome the dialogue if those experiences are different (that's what this blog is for.)
So where do we go from here? What is the real issue when it comes to natural hair in the workplace?
For me, the real issue is that we have more unsuccessful naturals than successful running around in business suits.
There are plenty of professional black women who don't know how to style, care for or grow out their natural hair. And that, I think, is reason for education and discussion.
I mean, how can we complain when our co-workers rag on our natural hair, if it is dry and disheveled? And how can we recommend a simple bun as a great natural hair workplace style when women can't even grow their hair long enough to do that.
Education is, I believe, a good starting point for a new kind of discussion on natural hair in the workplace.
Sunday, May 31, 2009
Friday, May 29, 2009
some weekend artsiness...

First Name: Gabi
Age: 24
Works in: Creative Arts/Graphic Design
Natural since: 2005 (via a big chop)
On natural hair: I love it! It compliments my style L says~Mine too!

I was born and raised in the UK so I'm a native. I live behind Leavesden Studios where they film Harry Potter (and some of the James Bond movies) - I've never actually read any of the books or seen the movies but you can see a lot of the big buildings when you drive past which is pretty cool.
On natural hair and work...
I think recently, the natural hair scene has gotten bigger over here. The spots where I tend to hang out attract a lot of women with natural hair which I really like. I work as a graphic designer for ITN which is a news station and I've only recently started wearing natural hair and I was pretty scared about taking out my straight braids. Most of the women in my department have relaxed hair and I guess because when it comes to the news you don't usually see a lot of news readers of colour rocking frohawks and dreads! L says~I had never thought of this and this is so true! I am in the news industry, and I know of many Black women who automatically get that weave or that relaxer if their aim is to do TV reporting. One of the reasons I haven't been interested in TV reporting is my hair. It's just not gonna fly. I got the usual 'omg did you cut your hair/I didn't recognise you!' comments and just smiled politely, lol.
On her T-shirt design business...
I've wanted to be a T-Shirt designer since I was about 5, but I've been selling shirts for about 2 or 3 years now.
My designs are inspired by so many things; my friends, my heritage, conversations I've had with people, wacky ideas I've had that I've managed to make designs from! It took me so many years to come up with a name for my company but I finally decided on G*ology - G being the first letter of my name, and the ology part basically meaning every shirt that's produced, each design is a part of who I am.
Quite a few of my customers are actually natural women from the US! I guess the themes of a lot of my shirts are quite niche so my sales vary. I'm definitely on the look out to find venues and magazines to advertise my tees and also as my life experience changes, the designs I add will change.



On hair...
I've recently started buying products online. I also frequent Harlesden as there are a lot of hair supply shops in the area. I feel like going natural is a bold step for women here in the UK as so many women choose weaves via accepting their natural hair, so it's a definite confidence booster for me.
I would like to see more natural hair salons and more hair supply stores owned by Black people. They had a natural hair expo called Adornment a few years ago which was fantastic, but it's not on anymore - so I would like to see more expo's for women like myself who are interested in natural hair care.
***
Thanks Gabi! Good insights and your designs are dope!
To see more of Gabi's T-shirt designs, check www.iamgology.com
So I've pulled the plug on our work styles giveaway. I'll discuss why in my upcoming Sunday retrospective. In the meanwhile, if you need some style inspiration for work, check the BGLH archives... TOOONS of sh*t there. The natural hair in the workplace discussion is still going on, with several interesting points being made. Feel free to weigh in here.
This profile of Gabi is a work styles giveaway entry that I morphed into a regular profile... And after reading through her interview I thought of the only profession I know of where you can be fired for going natural -- news/TV reporting.
Thursday, May 28, 2009
workplace hair still an issue? (aka... should I have dedicated a giveaway to it?... woops...)
So... um... the thing about natural hair, for me at least, is that I always want to know what's REALLY going on with it.
I've written before about how being a natural hair blogger can lend itself to alarmism (a fact Tyra Banks recently took advantage of) and false conclusions. And now I'm wondering if I've come to a false conclusion about natural hair in the workplace — namely that more people view it as an "issue" than don't.
So, we have these three work styles giveaway entries so far, and the ladies are well-adjusted naturals who give reasonable views on natural hair in the workplace. The resounding theme: if it's neat, it's fine. And that has been my experience too. I work in a rural, predominantly white county. (When I say rurally, I MEAN rural... 300 person towns, tractors on the road, houses spaced miles apart by corn and soy bean fields), and what I do for a living is interview people (I'm a reporter.) So me and my kinky hair approach people (mostly rural white and black people) every day for interviews. And honestly, it's not an issue.
I wrote a few months ago about a male co-worker who cracked jokes about my hair behind my back, and that caused a stir on the blog so I took it down. That situation really devastated my pride, in a sense, because the decision to be natural has meant embracing something unique to my kinkier texture — mad fuzz! It's kinda tough when people are looking at your mad fuzz like you're crazy. And you're looking back at them, and screaming with your eyes: "No, I'm not going to straighten it or excessively gel it, because, by God, as your hair is blonde and straight, mine is brown and fuzzy!"
But all those dramatic speaking-with-my-eyes-moments aside, I really haven't had an issue.
People see my hair, they get past it when I open my mouth. Can't say I've ever been complimented on my hair out here (lol), but that's not what I'm here for. And in rubbing shoulders with the townsfolk, I've been asked out on lunch and dinner dates — by men both black and white... so I know my hair isn't some kind of man-repellent.
Now, if there is an issue with me being natural at the workplace, it's not the reaction I get, it's my own inhibitions.
I usually stick to a neat bun, but I am terrified of taking risks here. When I worked in Chicago, it was all good. I could rock an afro puff if I wanted to (although I didn't), and I sported many free styles, side swept styles, etc. I'm nervous about trying that out here, where there are absolutely NO signs of urban life. There aren't many young black professional women (I swear there are, like, 6 in the whole county), so I'm already somewhat of an anomaly. Why make it worse by adding some decorative cornrows to the mix?
But then a part of me is like, but that's the BEAUTY of it — NOBODY ELSE IS OUT HERE! This ISN'T an urban place. People aren't going to look at my style and hate on it, when they're rocking faded, tapered Levi's from the 80s and corny white sneakers (lol!) I'm anonymous in this county, I'm a professional passing through for the sake of my career, and there is FREEDOM in that.
So, back to the point, I really want to know whether natural hair in the workplace is an outdated issue, and I, as a blogger, need to be spending my time on something else. (Here comes a poll again... you ready? BAM!) I've posted two polls on the right to get a sense of your feelings about this. One is about your opinions on natural hair in the workplace, the other about your experiences. I'm going to keep it up for a while, to give a lot of people a chance to respond.
There are so many cliched "issues" when it comes to natural hair: if you're natural, you sell-out whenever you flat iron (uh, no), if you're natural you like neo-soul music and are afrocentric (not necessarily), free-strand natural hair is cute, but can only get to a certain length.. you need locks for it to get long (uh, no)
I'm not going to throw another cliche into the mix, i.e., natural hair is unacceptable in the workplace and only brave people rock it (i mean, i'd like to think of myself as brave... but I don't draw on extra reserves of courage to walk into my office building every day.)
And I say all this recognizing that experiences are different. Perhaps there is real discrimination going on out there. But to be honest, "real discrimination" is not someone laughing at your hair (as in my case.) It wasn't my boss laughing, or the person who signs my checks, so on a certain level, I don't give a damn. I have my job, I do good work, and that's all that counts.
So let's hear it: What are your experiences with natural hair in the workplace? Is it still an issue, and if so, in what ways? I mean, I think this is a subtle topic... so don't be afraid to plumb the complexity of this...
And I'm going to do something unprecedented... Depending on the results of this conversation, I'm going to pull the plug on our workstyles giveaway. Those who participated thus far will still receive prizes for participation...
***update Friday 5/29/2009...***
So I did some digging and found more interesting stuff on this topic.
First off, here is an academic fellow at Harvard's Neiman School of Journalism (herself a Black woman) speaking on Black women's inability to wear their hair natural if they want to do TV news reporting: http://www.nieman.harvard.edu/reportsitem.aspx?id=100240
Also, Ursula Burns, the first Black woman to lead a major U.S. corporation, has natural hair. She was recently promoted to CEO of mega-company Xerox.

More info here: http://www.businessweek.com/magazine/content/09_23/b4134018712853.htm?chan=top+news_top+news+index+-+temp_top+story
I've written before about how being a natural hair blogger can lend itself to alarmism (a fact Tyra Banks recently took advantage of) and false conclusions. And now I'm wondering if I've come to a false conclusion about natural hair in the workplace — namely that more people view it as an "issue" than don't.
So, we have these three work styles giveaway entries so far, and the ladies are well-adjusted naturals who give reasonable views on natural hair in the workplace. The resounding theme: if it's neat, it's fine. And that has been my experience too. I work in a rural, predominantly white county. (When I say rurally, I MEAN rural... 300 person towns, tractors on the road, houses spaced miles apart by corn and soy bean fields), and what I do for a living is interview people (I'm a reporter.) So me and my kinky hair approach people (mostly rural white and black people) every day for interviews. And honestly, it's not an issue.
I wrote a few months ago about a male co-worker who cracked jokes about my hair behind my back, and that caused a stir on the blog so I took it down. That situation really devastated my pride, in a sense, because the decision to be natural has meant embracing something unique to my kinkier texture — mad fuzz! It's kinda tough when people are looking at your mad fuzz like you're crazy. And you're looking back at them, and screaming with your eyes: "No, I'm not going to straighten it or excessively gel it, because, by God, as your hair is blonde and straight, mine is brown and fuzzy!"
But all those dramatic speaking-with-my-eyes-moments aside, I really haven't had an issue.
People see my hair, they get past it when I open my mouth. Can't say I've ever been complimented on my hair out here (lol), but that's not what I'm here for. And in rubbing shoulders with the townsfolk, I've been asked out on lunch and dinner dates — by men both black and white... so I know my hair isn't some kind of man-repellent.
Now, if there is an issue with me being natural at the workplace, it's not the reaction I get, it's my own inhibitions.
I usually stick to a neat bun, but I am terrified of taking risks here. When I worked in Chicago, it was all good. I could rock an afro puff if I wanted to (although I didn't), and I sported many free styles, side swept styles, etc. I'm nervous about trying that out here, where there are absolutely NO signs of urban life. There aren't many young black professional women (I swear there are, like, 6 in the whole county), so I'm already somewhat of an anomaly. Why make it worse by adding some decorative cornrows to the mix?
But then a part of me is like, but that's the BEAUTY of it — NOBODY ELSE IS OUT HERE! This ISN'T an urban place. People aren't going to look at my style and hate on it, when they're rocking faded, tapered Levi's from the 80s and corny white sneakers (lol!) I'm anonymous in this county, I'm a professional passing through for the sake of my career, and there is FREEDOM in that.
So, back to the point, I really want to know whether natural hair in the workplace is an outdated issue, and I, as a blogger, need to be spending my time on something else. (Here comes a poll again... you ready? BAM!) I've posted two polls on the right to get a sense of your feelings about this. One is about your opinions on natural hair in the workplace, the other about your experiences. I'm going to keep it up for a while, to give a lot of people a chance to respond.
There are so many cliched "issues" when it comes to natural hair: if you're natural, you sell-out whenever you flat iron (uh, no), if you're natural you like neo-soul music and are afrocentric (not necessarily), free-strand natural hair is cute, but can only get to a certain length.. you need locks for it to get long (uh, no)
I'm not going to throw another cliche into the mix, i.e., natural hair is unacceptable in the workplace and only brave people rock it (i mean, i'd like to think of myself as brave... but I don't draw on extra reserves of courage to walk into my office building every day.)
And I say all this recognizing that experiences are different. Perhaps there is real discrimination going on out there. But to be honest, "real discrimination" is not someone laughing at your hair (as in my case.) It wasn't my boss laughing, or the person who signs my checks, so on a certain level, I don't give a damn. I have my job, I do good work, and that's all that counts.
So let's hear it: What are your experiences with natural hair in the workplace? Is it still an issue, and if so, in what ways? I mean, I think this is a subtle topic... so don't be afraid to plumb the complexity of this...
And I'm going to do something unprecedented... Depending on the results of this conversation, I'm going to pull the plug on our workstyles giveaway. Those who participated thus far will still receive prizes for participation...
***update Friday 5/29/2009...***
So I did some digging and found more interesting stuff on this topic.
First off, here is an academic fellow at Harvard's Neiman School of Journalism (herself a Black woman) speaking on Black women's inability to wear their hair natural if they want to do TV news reporting: http://www.nieman.harvard.edu/reportsitem.aspx?id=100240
Also, Ursula Burns, the first Black woman to lead a major U.S. corporation, has natural hair. She was recently promoted to CEO of mega-company Xerox.

More info here: http://www.businessweek.com/magazine/content/09_23/b4134018712853.htm?chan=top+news_top+news+index+-+temp_top+story
Wednesday, May 27, 2009
regimens gone wild, part 2
So I was curious after our recent discussion on regimens gone wild: In your opinion, what products or ingredients are the bedrock of a solid natural hair regimen? If you cut through all the product junkyism and the frenetic product search, which products/ingredients stand as critical components to a successful regimen? And if you don't know the answer, please be real about that too.
Say why the product/ingredient is important to you, and how long you've been natural. (It would be nice if you could also tell the length of your hair... since long hair regimens tend to be more rigorous than medium/short hair regimens... but you don't have to if you don't want to.)
Say why the product/ingredient is important to you, and how long you've been natural. (It would be nice if you could also tell the length of your hair... since long hair regimens tend to be more rigorous than medium/short hair regimens... but you don't have to if you don't want to.)
Labels:
assessing hair,
learning natural hair
Tuesday, May 26, 2009
naturals from around the world: weena in CANADA via HAITI!

Hey Leila!
Your blog is awesome and I thought I can talk about my city..Montreal, Canada :)
-Weena


BGLH: Where are you from?
Weena: I’m 19 and I was born in Montreal, Quebec, Canada. Both sides of my family immigrated here from Port-au-Prince, Haiti in the 1970s
BGLH: What's interesting about the place where you live?
Weena: Montreal is a very multicultural island. Many tourists say some parts resemble some European cities because of its French influence in its history. Most Montrealers speak French or joual (French with a Quebecois accent) and most Americans (especially from upstate NewYork/Vermont) come here to club/go to bars because the legal drinking age is 18. Celine Dion is from here and if you don’t like hockey you are considered weird/crazy, lol.
BGLH: What is the climate/weather like?
Weena: The summer is short and it can be extremely humid. The winter is long and frequent snowstorms are considered normal.
BGLH: What is the natural hair scene like?
Weena: It’s not very big but in the last 2 years it has definitely grown. I see at least 1 or 2 naturals every day on the bus/metro/street.
BGLH: Is natural hair normal or unusual?
Weena: It’s not really normal but it’s not unusual either. I don’t have people trying to touch my hair every time I go out or giving me the side eye. The only time I was asked if my hair was a weave/wig was when I went to Brooklyn, it never happened here, lol. It’s slowly starting to get accepted but I still see a lot of relaxers and weaves/braid extensions/wigs.
BGLH: What are the reactions to natural hair?
Weena: I was natural until I was 15 or 16 years old and I relaxed it for 2 years. In elementary school I used to always wear braids and my classmates (multicultural) always wanted to see my hair loose, they were fascinated by my hair, lol. All my family is relaxed but they never forced me to relax my hair. I was a big fan of natural hair when I was little, I would watch my mom brush her relaxed hair and think that her hair was pretty but at the same time I loved my hair. I remember telling her ”I am going to be natural my whole life because my hair is beautiful”
When I got to high school (mostly white with maybe 15 black people in my grade) the first thing the black girls asked me was why I didn’t relax my hair. I always told them because my natural hair is beautiful, why would I do that. They would laugh at me but I didn’t care. In secondary 3 (9th grade) I started to think like them and wondered why I didn’t relax my hair too (It's crazy what peer pressure can do) So I gave in…just to be like everyone else.
BGLH: When did you go natural? Did you transition or big chop?
Weena: When I did my big chop 2 years ago, my family just thought it was a phase but they liked it, especially my grandmother (who never wanted me to relax my hair in the first place) on my mom’s side. Some were shocked because they thought my hair was pretty when it was relaxed and they were wondering why I would cut it. Now I rarely get negative reactions, they are mostly always positive.
I was planning on transitioning for a year but that quickly turned to 6 months, later to 2 months to finally the next day lol. I transitioned for less than 2 months and did my big chop on May 12th 2007.
BGLH: Where do you buy your hair products?
Weena: I buy them at the BSS, drugstore, natural health food store and online.
BGLH: Do you have natural hair 'meetups' in your country?
Weena: Not that I know of.
BGLH: What do you like about being natural in your country?
Weena: It would definitely be standing out.
BGLH: What would you like to see in your country in terms of natural hair care?
Weena: I would like to see more products available in Canada. I don’t know how much money I spent on shipping but I’m sure it’s more than $100, lol. And of course more naturals and less damaged relaxed hair
BGLH: Anything else you want to add?
Weena: No one ever said the journey was easy. I’ve noticed a lot of naturals say that the first year their hair didn’t seem to grow but the second year it flourished! It’s true so hang in there!
When there is a product that looks interesting, do your research!!! Go on youtube, forums, fotkis to see what other naturals with a similar texture as yours say about it before buying it. There are some products I’m not trying because many of my “hair twins” don’t like it.
Good luck to everyone and Happy Hair Growing!! :D
***
Thanks Weena! You can find her on Fotki and YouTube:
http://public.fotki.com/wj0147/
http://www.youtube.com/user/wj539
Labels:
canada,
haiti,
naturals from around the world,
puff,
the color project
Monday, May 25, 2009
Rock Solid Regimen... Hamira

"I love the traits that identify me as a black, African woman. I love being a nappy-headed, dark-skinned woman. When someone tells me that I look good or that my hair looks good, it’s a boon to my truest, unaltered self." ~Hamira






**All photos are of Hamira's real hair. None are extensions.
BGLH: where do you live?
Hamira: I’m originally from Nigeria, but currently live in Minnesota and most of the time I deal with what feels like hellish, blizzard conditions. I’ve only been in this state for two years and previous to that lived in much warmer climes (Louisiana and Florida), so my hair has had to deal with quite a bit.
BGLH: why did you make the decision to go natural?
Hamira: I went natural in December 2002 and did so because I realized it was an option. That sounds a little strange, but my hair had been permed for as long as I could remember and it never occurred to me that stopping could be an option until I came across a blog discussing natural hair. I had “healthy”, thick, relaxed hair, so damage wasn’t one of my motivators. I just wanted to become my more authentic self. I felt then, as I do now, that my natural hair was part of my identity as an African woman and I embrace and love everything that comes with that.
BGLH: how does your hair work for your life?
Hamira: It works perfectly. I am currently work in a university setting, and my hair is never mentioned unless someone is complimenting it.
BGLH: where do you get style inspiration from?
Hamira: I’ve been doing hair since I was 11, so I love coming up with new styles on my own. I’m pretty low maintenance when it comes to styling in general and prefer simple elegant styles to anything too elaborate. My favorite updo is a simple French roll because it gets my ends out of the way and looks polished.
BGLH: what's the best thing about being natural?
Hamira: I love feeling like my authentic self. I love the traits that identify me as a black, African woman. I love being a nappy-headed, dark-skinned woman. When someone tells me that I look good or that my hair looks good, it’s a boon to my truest, unaltered self. L says~That is an amazing answer if I ever heard one!
BGLH: did it take long for your hair to grow out?
Hamira: It depends on what you define as long. I mean, I’ve gone through several hair cuts for styling purposes, so keep that in mind when you’re looking at my hair. Is 4 years long? It’s taken me a couple of years to get to this point, and I think that I got to this place by practicing simple hair care techniques. I used to be a serious product junkie (I mean 23+ bottles of conditioner serious) but even through all that, my basic hair care practices never changed, just the products. Again and again the products. I don’t think my hair grows any faster than the normal rate of ¼ to ½ of an inch a month; I just retain a lot of it. When people complain about how long it takes to grow long hair, I always say that those 3-4 years are going to pass regardless of what you’re doing to your hair. Might as well come out of it with longer hair (if that’s what you want). Don’t think of it as a jail sentence
BGLH: could you describe your products and regimen?
Hamira: I select products based on maintaining the moisture balance in my hair, and my mainstay conditioner is Nexxus Humentress (the old formula with the grey top). I use it as a conditioner and as a leave-in, and it’s one of the few products that makes my hair butter soft. They’ve recently reformulated this product, much to my dismay, and I’m buying up all the bottles of the old formula that I come across. I used to be a serious product junkie, but this has been my routine conditioner for the last 2-3 years.
For deep/protein conditioning, I like Nexxus Emergencee, Aveda Damage Remedy and Aphogee Reconstructor. Either one of these will restore the necessary proteins to your hair.
I also use shea butter to seal in moisture and castor oil for detangling. Every natural needs to give castor oil a try, at least once. It’s made the most notable difference for me when detangling my super shrinky hair.
As for shampoos, I’m not picky. As long as it’s not one of those cheap, laundry detergent types that will strip my hair naked, I’m okay. I avoid petroleum jelly and mineral oils. I’ve been reading up on henna (which sounds lovely) and ayurvedic hair care, but I haven’t started using any yet.
Keep in mind that my hair is almost always in micro braids (sans extension) or twists, so I don’t concern myself with combing, especially not daily. On the occasions that I do comb, I use a mixture of conditioner and castor oil and my Goody Styling Therapy brush. This happens maybe once or twice a year. I’ll part a section, brush it out, and braid or twist it. The flexible nature of the Goody brush means that my parted sections don’t have to be too small.
BGLH: anything else you want to add?
Hamira: Growing long hair isn’t hard; just leave your hair alone. I know this is easier said than done, but keeping styling to a minimum is important if you want to retain length. If you’re the type who likes to switch it up daily and doesn’t care about how long your hair gets, then disregard this as it doesn’t pertain to you. But if you are constantly twisting for that twistout, braiding for the braidout, coiling for that coilout and wondering why your hair doesn’t seem to be growing, it’s probably because you’re playing in it too much. I think that most black women are fed the line that their hair has to be “done” (as in styled) all the time, especially with natural hair, which has the extra requirement of being “tamed” and “styled”. Don’t be afraid of frizzy twists or the little poof of new growth on older braids. I’ve seen “growth aid” trends come and go and I recommended staying off of those bandwagons. I’ve seen people getting demoralized because their hair didn’t grow the 2+ inches a month that some product promised them and I think that most of these trends are destructive and undermine normal, patient hair care practices.
Another thing that comes up a lot of hair care boards is the issue of texture and shrinkage, which sometimes goes hand in hand, but can be exclusive of each other as well. Learn to love and work with the hair you have. If you can truly accept what inches out of your scalp each month, you will save yourself the trouble of trying to “fix” or hide it. This is one of those things that’s also easier said than done. It’s also something that you can’t change (without chemicals) which is why accepting it becomes crucial to your hair’s survival. A lot of times texture/shrinkage-fighting manifests itself in the constant styling mentioned in the paragraph above, so if this is you, I’m not going to be patronizing and say that “God created your hair the way it is and you should learn to love it now” (as though saying that makes detangling any easier); I will suggest however that you try to find flattering laissez-faire styles that your hair likes and wear those more often.
On a final note, don’t obsess. This sounds strange after my dissertation on growing out your hair, but seriously, don’t waste time monitoring you hair growth monthly (do you know how small ¼ of an inch actually is?) you will only drive yourself crazy. I have no idea how many inches my longest or shortest layers are and don’t care. If you make it your goal to get your hair as healthy as possible, then the rest will follow, measurements or not.
For more of Hamira, check out her fotki page: http://members.fotki.com/Delushious/about/.
Sunday, May 24, 2009
sunday retrospective: regimens gone wild?

So I posted Friday about my spritz-induced breakouts, and how I started spritzing because... well... because everyone was doing it. It got me thinking about a phenomenon I've seen in the natural hair community — the regimen gone wild.
Let me preface this by saying that this post is not about spritzing — spritzing is a proven and effective strategy for some natural women.
This post is about the fact that after leaving the expensive and involved world of relaxers/straighteners, many women re-complicate their lives with an endless products chase (which, apparently, can cause acne... among other things) I've seen online hair albums with pictures of dozens of products. I've read of women spending $100 a month on moisturizers.
On the other hand, in one of my first interviews on this blog, natural hair care author Chicoro said that all she really needed to maintain her gorgeous curls was a quarter cup of pure water, a cheap conditioner and some vegetable glycerin.
In a recent Sunday retrospective several newbies said that the natural hair community is in serious danger of information overload, and I think I might agree...
So my question is, are we complicating a process that should be simple?
Is there actually any benefit in being a product junky?
What are the roots of the "regimen gone wild"/product junky-ism? Is it lack of education? Is it something else?
Labels:
assessing hair,
sunday retrospective
Friday, May 22, 2009
when a spritz goes wrong...

So since I did my big chop in late 06, I'd always used some kind of hair butter or cream as a daily moisturizer. But after reading many testimonials, I decided to jump on the "daily spritz" bandwagon. I started spritzing with diluted suave coconut conditioner (before a castor oil seal), then upgraded to a diluted herbal essences conditioner.
And that's when my face got furious. My skin broke out in a MAJOR way, pumping out oil faster than a Middle Eastern desert... Look, I got pimples where no human being should ever get pimples... (I didn't want to get graphic... but yes, I did get a neck pimple... or two...)
I panicked, and tried everything to combat this — stressing less (yeh, uh... that didn’t really work), upping my bentonite facial regimen, drinking TONS of water... I even tried Proactiv for a while. None of this worked.
And then I made the connection between my "awesome" spritz and my ever expanding acne.
Apparently, microscopic rivulets of spritz were traveling down my face and inflaming my skin (ok, that is totally unscientific... I don't know exactly how the spritz got there, but it got there...)
I quickly axed the herbal essences diluted spritz, and downgraded to a more natural rose water spritz... but my face still didn't like it.
So my spritz saga has ended entirely, and I'm back to my trusty hair butters/creams.
I understand the moisturizing and conditioning effects of the spritz... but if I want to increase the moisture in my regimen, I'm just going to have to step my co-wash (conditioner/wash) game up.
A hard lesson learned (with the blemishes to show)... but hey, it's a journey.
*sigh
Wednesday, May 20, 2009
Naomi Davis on natural hair in the workplace, pt 2

Naomi Davis: former attorney, founder of the Blacks in Green (B.I.G.) environmental group, a Chicago-based organization dedicated to bring environmental awareness and green jobs into impoverished, urban black communities.
Part 1 of Naomi Davis' interview is here.
BGLH: When did you go natural and why?
Naomi: 1999 for the second time. The first time I wore a fro for 10 years that included college.
BGLH: When you made the decision to go natural, were you worried about the implications for your work?
Naomi: No.
BGLH: Do you think the professional world is ready to accept natural hair?
Naomi: Yes, unequivocally if the rest of you looks the part.
BGLH: Describe the reactions your natural hair receives in a professional setting. Is it viewed as acceptable?
Naomi: No one ever questions or insinuates against my hair. I have only ever received positive feedback. Oh, except one time a dear friend - an older white male and Texan (Texas! no less...where I thought big hair ruled!) - told me he thought my hair was too big.
BGLH: What are some of the early styles that you tried?
Naomi: During my transitioning years I wore my hair pulled back or pulled up with natural look hair braided or combed in to augment style.

BGLH: Did you ever get discouraged in the process of going natural?
Naomi: No, not during the process. I had a simple elegant look that was simple, low maintenance and it didn't matter how much my chemically processed hair fell off along the way. However now, unless I can hunker down and enjoy a good detangling comb-out, it's easy to avoid and then fret over. It can and does get easily matted; and peppercorns, while fascinating, are annoying and destructive.
BGLH: Are you originally from Chicago? If not, where are you from and how did you wind up here?
Naomi: I'm a native New Yorker. Came here to attend law school because my college sweetheart lived here.
BGLH: Tell us about your organization Blacks in Green.
Naomi: We are green-village-builders, and we teach "The 8 Principles of Green-Village-Building" - a course for communities and developers who believe in jobs-driven development without displacement, so that neighbors can make an oasis wherever they live.
BGLH: What motivated you to start B.I.G., and what drives you to keep it going?
Naomi: One day I realized I was the granddaughter of Mississippi sharecroppers who didn't know how to grow squat. I realized that though I was born as a child of the 60's when everything was possible, I was suddenly living in the age of climate change, with advances reversing, with no "help on the way." I remembered how much I had loved the land as a child and how I'd learned as an adult how well (every single time) I would feel when I went to the woods. I remembered how proud I was in 2nd grade winning 3rd Place in the Brotherhood Week Poster Contest at P.S. 15 Queens, and how my Mom had taught me over the years what it meant to be an activist - being in action on one's strongly held beliefs. And I got in touch with my finite time and skill, and my declared commitment to a world that worked for everyone, with no one and nothing left out. And my solidarity with Eldridge Cleaver that "you're either part of the solution or part of the problem." I was raised by a seemingly fearless woman in an afrocentric home, knowing the greatness of my people, yet nevertheless learning fear and doubt, and learning black shame and my own sense of inferiority. And eventually I learned there's only ever one thing to do when bumping into a wall of one's own limiting belief, and that's to knock it down. I had contributed all I could "under the radar" and needed to "come out" for what mattered most to me. I came out to embrace my purpose in life: self-sustaining African diaspora communities. At times brutal, but worth every blow..."and still I rise."
BGLH: You seem to be a free spirit. Is that an accurate description?
Naomi: More accurate would be: I am a free thinker, committed.
BGLH: What does your hair represent for you?
Naomi: Before I answer, I'd like to call attention to Eleanor Holmes Norton, who wears her hair cropped to the scalp. L says~Eleanor Holmes Norton is a Delegate to Congress representing the District of Columbia. Do you cover this style? More than ever, progressive thinkers are "going to the bone." What do you make of this, in a time and place where male sexualization of women craves ever longer hair? Though I'm not sure I'd like it on me (or have the balls - if you could ever forgive the irony of this phrase), Eleanor looks fabulous to me.
To your question, only recently after years of neglect and stress thinned my hair to what you see in the April 2008 Chicago Magazine Green Awards photo (thinning almost impossible to discern in my favorite Ida B. Wells style) did I think about my hair as representing anything personal. Always for me it was a heritage thing: I am an African woman and will not spend bunches of time and money to look how I don't. Working 20-hour days on end requires the kind of style that can brush up and look swell on the fly. Natural grooming takes less time and money than caring for permed hair, if done smartly...but I abused the ease of looking good by failing to take care. Nowhere in my life was I taking care of me.
So recently my question has become: shall I prefer to treat myself well? And hair, like any other embodiment, shines with loving attention.
I love my hair. I love touching it and twirling it. I love studying its strands. I love the thought of the limitless styles I could make if I took the time. I love that folks respond with love for it. I love to look good. Yet I have trouble making care of self more important than mission. And I am learning as I go that at the end of the day, loving attention to my hair or care of my diet or expenses are all the same. How tender is my stewardship of self - head to toe, inside out? The greater this harmony, the sooner the end to discord here in the world of opposites. So I'm a work in progress. And I repeat for you, wise counsel I was given to remind my own self ceaselessly: "take good care of yourself; if you do, all will be beneficiaries."
BGLH: Do you think the older generation of Black men and women, generally speaking, have done enough to encourage and embrace the natural movement?
Naomi: Sadly, our elders have let our tortured history seduce them into silence on our great cultural legacy. They preferred to forget, and created generations who neither knew nor loved themselves. They were hurting and they loved us and thought to spare us the pain; but made us weak instead.
BGLH: What are some experiences your natural sisters have gone through that impacted you, whether because they were joyous, interesting or painful experiences?
Naomi: I was hurt when my friend recently told me she put on a wig to quiet the violence in her office. Ouch. But I rarely discuss hair with anyone. How have you gotten me to wax on???
BGLH: Your hair is FABULOUS! What is your regimen?
Naomi: Years ago I stopped experimenting with products. I even made my own when I wanted to bring a product to market, but work pressures put that on a continuing back-burner. I had tried everything on the market up to that time and only one product would detangle my hair; and nothing would provide moisture without grease or flaking but Organic Root Stimulator Mayonnaise. I use gobs of it. Then I discovered my favorite treatment: an hour on my back in the tub and hair floating. My hair loves nothing more than a frequent sleeping meditation in the tub. Water has sacred power.
BGLH: How did you get it to this length?
Naomi: My best advice would be to comb it out using a detangler each night, twist it up with a moisturizer, always wear a cap to bed, and otherwise avoid combing. Wash it when it asks for washing. Again, I like the Organic Root Stimulator line. I always recommend buying black hair care products from black companies. Fill any unmet need in the market by starting your own company, or make your own. We must become manufacturers. Sometimes I wash, shake and shape without a comb and wear an afro for a few weeks. Sometimes I blow dry it, style it up and wear a cap to bed for days, just freshening with a brush daily. Every once in a while I would have it pressed...but no more. Sometimes I can pull a 'do together on the fly (in the taxi on the way to a photo shoot!) by moisturizing heavily, twisting into 6 sections, untwisting, then finger fluffing for the for the style you see in that photo. L says~That is, the first photo in this post.
BGLH: And what's your favorite style!
Naomi: The Ida B. Wells, of course!



Wow. Lots to think about. Thank you Naomi!
Tuesday, May 19, 2009
natural girl's nemesis: heat damage!
Question for J from Cee:
Hey BGLH. I am an avid reader of your blog, because it helps me in my quest for healthy hair. But there's something that's been bothering me.
See, when I first became natural, I think my hair was much more healthier then. But now, the front of my hair is short and type damaged, and my hair is uneven. The right side is long and thinner then the left side, which is shorter and thicker, and seems to be healthier looking. The back of my hair used to be thick, but now its a bit thin, and there's this section in the front that is always straight. It doesn't curl up or anything, even when I use such products like Curlz, or Miss Jessie's, I think due to the fact that I used to flat iron that part almost every day to make bangs. And I think a part of the section that is straight has always been like that, not really curly or wavy as the rest of my hair. I do know how to style my hair. I cornrow it, and the next day I release the cornrows and they come out nice. My hair is soft and naturally wavy, but I think its damaged. I don't know what to do with it.
The good thing is that ever since I read your blog and learned about moisturizing and co-washing and deep conditioning, I've been doing just that, and my has grown and is less dry. Its easier to manage. So what can i do to solve my problem?
twist out 
flat-ironed bang 
pretty puff 
j's response:
Hey Cee,
First off, you have beautiful hair (and skin)! It appears to me that you've suffered some heat damage. Heat damage is one of those things that once the damage is done, there's not much you can do about it. Excessive heat breaks the natural chemical bonds in the hair structure and damages the cuticle. Over time the cuticle can crack or wear away, leaving the inner layers exposed. This results in dryness and moisture loss. This is why heat damage is not something that can be undone. I would suggest a series of protein treatments to help repair some of the damage that probably resulted due to the heat. In cases of heat damage, I have seen protein treatments help. Since hair is composed primarily of protein, protein treatments bond to the hair to keep the damage at bay, as opposed to it getting worse. They help to rebuild the hair structure using the protein to help "fill in the gaps" in the hair strands, so to speak. For some individuals, protein treatments are also helpful with shedding. A popular protein treatment to try is Aphogee Two-Step Protein Treatment for Damaged Hair. It uses animal protein but for the animal friendly, a vegetable based protein is Jheri Redding 100% Natural Protein Conditioner Treatment. In addition, alternate with moisturizing deep treatments to maintain a moisture balance (too much protein can make the hair brittle).
Honestly, from your pics, I really don't see much damage. In the twist out picture, it looks like the bang area has been affected which is to be expected from your former daily flat ironing ritual. Do periodic trims to gradually remove the damaged ends. Most importantly, avoid heat! If you do use heat again, please limit heat to once in a while, not every week. Lower the setting on your flat iron and use a good heat protectant. Although a rarity, I have seen some naturals' hair suffer from temporary reversion issues, meaning that their hair "napps back" up over time. This helps satisfy the visual aesthetic, but it doesn't necessarily mean that damage has not occurred.
Additional question from Cee: "Along with the helpful tips you gave me, do you think that maybe if I put braids in and when removing the braids I trim the damaged ends off, that my hair can go back to what it used to be?"
j's response:
The braids will assist in keeping your hair protected due to it being a protective style. You won't be manipulating your strands unnecessarily. This will give your hair a well-earned break :) Be careful not to put in your braids too tight to prevent damage to the hair follicles. This is for extension braids or even the cornrows that you do for your braidouts. This could be what's responsible for the thinning in the back of your hair. Lastly, baby your hair! Be gentle with it at all times, especially when removing the braids. Your hair seems to be fine textured so you want to avoid tangles at all costs. Thanks for your question. This is an important topic for naturals! Good Luck Cee!
~j~
Hey BGLH. I am an avid reader of your blog, because it helps me in my quest for healthy hair. But there's something that's been bothering me.
See, when I first became natural, I think my hair was much more healthier then. But now, the front of my hair is short and type damaged, and my hair is uneven. The right side is long and thinner then the left side, which is shorter and thicker, and seems to be healthier looking. The back of my hair used to be thick, but now its a bit thin, and there's this section in the front that is always straight. It doesn't curl up or anything, even when I use such products like Curlz, or Miss Jessie's, I think due to the fact that I used to flat iron that part almost every day to make bangs. And I think a part of the section that is straight has always been like that, not really curly or wavy as the rest of my hair. I do know how to style my hair. I cornrow it, and the next day I release the cornrows and they come out nice. My hair is soft and naturally wavy, but I think its damaged. I don't know what to do with it.
The good thing is that ever since I read your blog and learned about moisturizing and co-washing and deep conditioning, I've been doing just that, and my has grown and is less dry. Its easier to manage. So what can i do to solve my problem?



j's response:
Hey Cee,
First off, you have beautiful hair (and skin)! It appears to me that you've suffered some heat damage. Heat damage is one of those things that once the damage is done, there's not much you can do about it. Excessive heat breaks the natural chemical bonds in the hair structure and damages the cuticle. Over time the cuticle can crack or wear away, leaving the inner layers exposed. This results in dryness and moisture loss. This is why heat damage is not something that can be undone. I would suggest a series of protein treatments to help repair some of the damage that probably resulted due to the heat. In cases of heat damage, I have seen protein treatments help. Since hair is composed primarily of protein, protein treatments bond to the hair to keep the damage at bay, as opposed to it getting worse. They help to rebuild the hair structure using the protein to help "fill in the gaps" in the hair strands, so to speak. For some individuals, protein treatments are also helpful with shedding. A popular protein treatment to try is Aphogee Two-Step Protein Treatment for Damaged Hair. It uses animal protein but for the animal friendly, a vegetable based protein is Jheri Redding 100% Natural Protein Conditioner Treatment. In addition, alternate with moisturizing deep treatments to maintain a moisture balance (too much protein can make the hair brittle).
Honestly, from your pics, I really don't see much damage. In the twist out picture, it looks like the bang area has been affected which is to be expected from your former daily flat ironing ritual. Do periodic trims to gradually remove the damaged ends. Most importantly, avoid heat! If you do use heat again, please limit heat to once in a while, not every week. Lower the setting on your flat iron and use a good heat protectant. Although a rarity, I have seen some naturals' hair suffer from temporary reversion issues, meaning that their hair "napps back" up over time. This helps satisfy the visual aesthetic, but it doesn't necessarily mean that damage has not occurred.
Additional question from Cee: "Along with the helpful tips you gave me, do you think that maybe if I put braids in and when removing the braids I trim the damaged ends off, that my hair can go back to what it used to be?"
j's response:
The braids will assist in keeping your hair protected due to it being a protective style. You won't be manipulating your strands unnecessarily. This will give your hair a well-earned break :) Be careful not to put in your braids too tight to prevent damage to the hair follicles. This is for extension braids or even the cornrows that you do for your braidouts. This could be what's responsible for the thinning in the back of your hair. Lastly, baby your hair! Be gentle with it at all times, especially when removing the braids. Your hair seems to be fine textured so you want to avoid tangles at all costs. Thanks for your question. This is an important topic for naturals! Good Luck Cee!
~j~
Sunday, May 17, 2009
monday style icon/rock solid regimen: BelleMuse

Part 1 of BelleMuse's feature
BGLH: where are you from? what's the weather like there?
BELLEMUSE: Michigan - The weather changes quickly and without notice but, I wouldn't change it for the world because I luv to see the seasons change. It's refreshing.
BGLH: why did you make the decision to go natural, and when did you do it?
BELLEMUSE: Wanted to see what my hair would be like. January 2007 I started transitioning. January 2008 I cut off all heat/chemically damaged hair.
BGLH: what products/ingredients do you use? why?
BELLEMUSE: Castor oil, glycerin, extra virgin olive oil & coconut oil because they keep my hair moisturized and soft.
BGLH: what mistakes have you made in your natural journey that you've learned from?
BELLEMUSE: Combing my hair while dry & sleeping without a silk scarf. Trying to watch my hair to see if it was growing, was like trying to watch grass grow. Simply a bad idea for me.
BGLH: could you describe your regimen?
BELLEMUSE: No shampoo ever. I use apple cider vinegar & baking soda to cleanse. I deep condition weekly with suave & cholesterol conditioners.
BGLH: how does your hair work for your life?
BELLEMUSE: Because I’m a student I mostly wear ponytails but, on the weekend my hair reflects my mood. (fro, twist, frohawk etc)
BGLH: where do you get style inspiration from?
BELLEMUSE: Tracee E. Ross, Erykah Badu & fashion magazines. I can adapt most styles to work with my hair.
BGLH: did it take long for your hair to grow out?
BELLEMUSE: No, because I wore mostly protective styles & I kept my hair in a baggy mostly.
BGLH: what's the best thing about being natural?
BELLEMUSE: No longer avoiding working out or swimming. My hair actually luvs water!!
BGLH: anything else you want to add?
BELLEMUSE: "Remove the kinks from your brain, not from your hair." — Marcus Garvey






***
Thanks BelleMuse!! To clarify, that first picture is NOT a wig. It's BelleMuse's natural hair. Also, that last picture is two strand twists, not locks. You can find her fotki page here.
And I'm glad you guys got something out of the things Naomi had to say. I will post the rest of her interview (with more pictures) on Wednesday.
Labels:
french braids,
rock solid regimen,
style icon,
twist out,
twists
Friday, May 15, 2009
Naomi Davis on natural hair in the workplace...


So, a few months back, I did a post about 'grown and sexy' naturals: professional women over 50 with DOPE hair. One of the women I mentioned was Naomi Davis, a former attorney and founder of B.I.G. (Blacks in Green), a Chicago-based organization dedicated to raising environmental awareness and bringing green jobs into impoverished Black communities.
I asked her if she'd like to be interviewed to kick off our work styles giveaway, and she agreed. This is just the first half of the interview, I'll post the second half next week. All of this is very thought provoking, so I would love to hear your thoughts on it!
Leila,
I have never had a formal opportunity to talk about my hair philosophy and am grateful for the chance.
In fact, I had a conversation with Renee*, intern for Chicago's Department of Environment last night, and Charice*, a local business consultant who sometimes caps her natural coif with a wig just to silence the violence, so to speak about natural hair in the office.
No amount of money or "security" could have me deny my nature.
For over 10 years I've been natural and not locked. It's not easy given my grueling work schedule, and how nappy my hair is...but I'm committed. And this means committed in spite of major hair loss from neglect and stress, to be honest. Mostly I pin my hair into an Ida B. Wells updo and call it a day. Elegant and most decidedly African.

L says~Ida Bell Wells-Barnett (July 16, 1862–March 25, 1931) was an African American journalist and newspaper editor. An early leader in the civil rights movement, she documented the extent of lynching in the United States. She was also active in the women's rights movement and the women's suffrage movement.
A few years ago I would occasionally press my hair for a diversion. I've been a long -time fashionista - that is to say, brought up in the NYC wrag trade, Assistant Buyer at Bloomingdales, and Paris runway fantacizer. So fashion and a diversity of looks comes naturally to me, and so having a diversity of looks for me is ok. But the last time I had my hair pressed, one section of my hair would not revert and after 9 months + I cut it out and resolved that no hot comb would ever touch my hair again. Permanent conversion was not my bag.
I entertained a product called Straight Ends** which promised superior press and curl staying power without permanent chemical conversion, but I could never get their system down, and to this day have no sense of whether it really works. And no longer care.
What's not ok is hating oneself and not knowing oneself when it causes us to fund an entire lifestyle and image that's Euro-based. This does not include fashion, because God did not create the fashions on our backs but did create the hair on our heads. It does not even include plastic surgery, because while God did create our faces, every plastic surgery is not for the purpose of looking less Afro/moreEuro. It most definitely includes the billions we spend on Chinese hair for "African" braids, the longer the better.
And no, I don't think every woman and girl needs to scream Africa! But let's get at the root of self-loathing. I ain't mad at Madame CJ, but let's all read Belle Hooks' book on black self-hate, Rock My Soul, and get real about how our oppression chases at the heels of our progress.
It's everywhere. The black baby/white baby experiment results are as consistent and alarming today as they were in the 50's.
L says~The Clarks' doll experiments was conducted in the 1940s to test Black children's self perception related to race. The children were given the option to play with a black doll or a white doll. Experimenters found that Black children often preferred to play with white dolls over black; that, asked to fill in a human figure with the color of their own skin, they frequently chose a lighter shade than was accurate; and that the children gave the color "white" attributes such as good and pretty, but "black" was qualified as bad and ugly. They viewed the results as evidence that the children had internalized racism caused by being discriminated against and stigmatized by segregation.
In 2006 filmmaker Kiri Davis recreated the doll study and documented it in a film entitled A Girl Like Me. Despite the many changes in some parts of society, she found the same results as did the Drs. Clark in their study of the late 1930s and early 1940s. Click here to see Kiri Davis' experiment.
And I could go on and on. The story of working to develop my own product...the story of the endowment to build hair factories in the 'hood...the story of BIG's (Blacks in Green) recent workshop, "Race~Class~Environment" which reminded me of my own feelings of black inferiority. Yes, even me.
But uncovered, these boogeymen loose their leverage. It's called Truth & Reconciliation.
*name changed to protect identity
**company name changed to protect
***
And a quick "dopeness in the blogosphere" alert!
Jc over at the Natural Haven has a great post on whether the coconut/lime natural relaxer is actually a relaxer. Great info! Click here to check it out.
Thursday, May 14, 2009
why i chopped off my 2-foot long relaxer* pt 3


*This is not an exact hair measurement
Bublnbrnsuga has been kind enough to share her amazing hair journey with us over the past several weeks — from relaxing her super long natural hair in October 2008, to not liking the relaxer, to cutting it all off in March 2009.
Some reading to get you caught up:
Part 1
Rock Solid Regimen interview
Part 2
Peep the third installment...
BGLH: why did you decide to do a big chop as opposed to a gradual transition?
BUBLNBRNSUGA: I transitioned for 16 months when I first went natural in 2002. That's too long!!! I really believe that some of the best times being natural is when you start low and let it grow!!
BGLH: did you do the cut yourself? did you go to a salon? what were the hairdressers' reactions?
BUBLNBRNSUGA: I did cut my hair myself- and jacked it up. After I realized I am not hair savvy yet alone I shouldn't deal with scissors, I decided to go to the salon. The lady who shaped me up was very supportive- she had natural hair also. I do think that if my hair was still long, I would've had to deal with the 'are you SURE you wanna cut if off?' Girl, all of this long hair and you wanna cut it!' comments from those in her shop and possibly her , too.
BGLH: was it hard to let go of all that hair?
BUBLNBRNSUGA: Honestly, nope! You only live once and when you realize that hair is just hair, it won't have such strong hold on you. I allowed it to control me because that's how I was identified - by my long hair.
BGLH: i had estimated that you had 24 inches... was i off? was it closer to 20? do you even know, lol?
BUBLNBRNSUGA: Nope don't know and I am not good with estimates,lol!
BGLH: so, what are your plans now for your hair in terms of an ultimate length? do you even have a plan or are you just going to go with the flow?
BUBLNBRNSUGA: I think that I am not going to allow it to get longer than my armpit-stretched. My hair was at it's flyest at this length when I first went natural.
BGLH: how will you style your hair now?
BUBLNBRNSUGA: Believe or not, I am able to do a curly fro now. It's short and really cuuute!
BGLH: what products will you use now? will you switch up your products/regimen at all now that your hair is shorter?
BUBLNBRNSUGA: Products that are in current rotation for me are:
Asha's Heavenly Hair Pudding , Smooth n Shine Curl Activator Gel (THE BOMB)!!!, Kinky Curly Knot Today, Shikakai/Amla/Arithra rinses for cleaning, jojoba oil for my scalp.
BGLH: what do you like most about your new super-short do?
BUBLNBRNSUGA: I like that all I have to do now is spritz water on my hair, dab my fingertips in the activator gel and rake my hands through my hair!
BGLH: some women look up to you as a true "it's just hair" girl. how does that make you feel?
BUBLNBRNSUGA: I didn't know some women looked at me in this way. I feel neutral about it to be honest.
BGLH: you've been natural for a really long time now, lol. and OBVIOUSLY you've done it all! what advice would you give to naturals...
BUBLNBRNSUGA: Wow this is such a loaded question! One thing I would say to naturals is it's one thing to be excited about being natural, but another to impose it on others. When I first went natural, I wanted every black woman to embrace their hair. I couldn't see myself EVER going back to the relaxer. I wondered why women even wanted to relax their hair, especially when God gave them such lush, lovely unaltered natural hair. I was pretty aggressive with the natural thing back then and really felt bruised when I saw my other natural hair idols decide that going back to the relaxer was the way for them. After all of that talk, guess what? I came to a place where I was bored with my natural hair and wanted a change, so I relaxed. All of this to say, just be careful about how you come across when you go natural. Most definitely it's freeing, exciting, and for many of us so new and yes, you want others to feel the same way, but everyone's not ready and that's okay! So many women go on that 'natural high' in the beginning, but after about the 3rd year of being natural they get bored and start looking at that ORS jar- the same jar they abhorred 3 years prior.



For more from this enlightened chick, check out her fotki page.
Wednesday, May 13, 2009
new natural: ALEXIS!

Alexis: I cut my relaxed ends a few years ago when I had braids (but) I straightened my hair religiously, so I didn't consider it natural. I chose to go natural because I felt like it was the true me and I felt that in order to grow I needed to be proud of my history.

Name: Alexis
Age: 17
Lives in: Detroit, Michigan
Time Natural: 1 month
Products: Miss Jessie's and an aovcado and shea butter mix, plans to try Oyin and Qhemet biologics
BGLH: How has your transition to natural hair been so far?
ALEXIS: Absolutely wonderful! I haven’t relaxed my hair since I was about 10 or 11 so I didn’t have a big chop. It’s been exhilarating and difficult at the same time, but I feel that this transition is helping me learn more about myself. Dealing with negativity from friends and family is hard, but I’ve decided to share my journey with others who have the same struggle. Since I’m still in high school I deal with stares and awkward conversations a lot, but I’m very outspoken so it’s allowed me to talk about natural beauty more to young girls.
My classmates have given me mixed messages. Some want to touch it and others just stare. I get comments like "You're brave", or "Bad hair day, huh?" My close friends have given me more support than I expected, but many don't understand why I made the change. I recently made my first natural hair vlog on youtube called “natural hair is in me” L says~I watched it last night and it is so cute & introspective. You can check it out here., in which I discussed me recent observations and my view of the relationship between natural hair and the African American community.
BGLH: When it comes to the online natural hair community (blogs, websites, forums, etc) is there too much information out there or too little?
ALEXIS: At first it seems like there is too much, but once you filter through to the helpful sites you find great information. I don’t think there could ever be too much information and every question I’ve ever had has been answered through various blogs and websites.
BGLH: What is your impression of the natural hair community (online and in real life) so far?
ALEXIS: Well obviously the natural hair community is growing and I think that more African Americans are accepting natural hair, but there is still a struggle within the real life natural hair community. We have to learn to embrace ourselves to bring about true change and I don’t think we are near that yet. It needs to start with educating our friends and family about why natural hair is a beautiful thing. As far as online, I feel that the communities are very helpful and open to different views. They have also been such a support center for me and I feel like a natural pro from learning so much through the online communities, lol.
BGLH: And, do you think it's still necessary to define natural women as a "community"?
ALEXIS: Yes, because we are the minority. There’s nothing wrong with defining us as “community” because that’s really what we are, but our goal should be to continuously grow larger.
***
Ok, is it just me or are the young naturals representing on this blog in a major way?! Every time I turn around there's a youngun with beautiful hair and a liberated attitude. Alexis your story is great, and you are so beautiful! Plus Detroit is where the American half of my family comes from, so thanks for representin'!
Reactions to the Tyra Banks show on "good hair" — my take
Okay, so it's Tuesday night at 10:00 p.m... and I've scheduled this post to run tomorrow morning so this might not still be true in the morning — but according to our poll right now most people think a.) Tyra should stop interviewing crazy a$$ black women that make us all look bad or b.) they simply don't watch the Tyra Banks show.
Lol.
I kind of bit my tongue yesterday because I wanted to get your opinions, but now that you guys have spoken, I can say that I'm not a fan of the Tyra Banks show (although I do like Tyra herself.)
I certainly think Tyra's heart was in the right place. But I'm getting tired of her pimping out black women's deep psychological issues to keep her show interesting. I mean, she'll bring up these really deep, serious issues on her show (bleaching, light skinned vs. dark, good hair vs bad) then discuss them with all the poise and sensitivity of, well, of a top model. The show strikes an alarmist tone that I'm just not comfortable with.
When I watched the trailer of the "good hair" episode on Tyra's website, I was kind of relieved to find comments scolding her for championing an issue on the show that she doesn't champion in real life. But I understand that Tyra's in a tough spot — she is one of a few black women who is embraced as an example of all-American beauty... but I guess it's come at the cost of (among other things) hiding her real hair.
I empathize with that struggle, but I don't think it's an excuse to parade deeply disturbed black women around on television, knowing that viewers will generalize to all black women. I mean, that generalization is correct in the sense that many black women do struggle with this issue. But it's not correct in that the issue is more complex than 'white girl flow' and a Hannah Montana doll.
So unfortunately, I guess Tyra will join Oprah and Essence Magazine in the ever expanding category of black women/black publications who have the power and influence to support the idea of natural beauty, but either choose not to, or do it in a half-a$$ way. But then, as many of you recently pointed out — naturals shouldn't be looking to pop culture for a handout anyway.
Lol.
I kind of bit my tongue yesterday because I wanted to get your opinions, but now that you guys have spoken, I can say that I'm not a fan of the Tyra Banks show (although I do like Tyra herself.)
I certainly think Tyra's heart was in the right place. But I'm getting tired of her pimping out black women's deep psychological issues to keep her show interesting. I mean, she'll bring up these really deep, serious issues on her show (bleaching, light skinned vs. dark, good hair vs bad) then discuss them with all the poise and sensitivity of, well, of a top model. The show strikes an alarmist tone that I'm just not comfortable with.
When I watched the trailer of the "good hair" episode on Tyra's website, I was kind of relieved to find comments scolding her for championing an issue on the show that she doesn't champion in real life. But I understand that Tyra's in a tough spot — she is one of a few black women who is embraced as an example of all-American beauty... but I guess it's come at the cost of (among other things) hiding her real hair.
I empathize with that struggle, but I don't think it's an excuse to parade deeply disturbed black women around on television, knowing that viewers will generalize to all black women. I mean, that generalization is correct in the sense that many black women do struggle with this issue. But it's not correct in that the issue is more complex than 'white girl flow' and a Hannah Montana doll.
So unfortunately, I guess Tyra will join Oprah and Essence Magazine in the ever expanding category of black women/black publications who have the power and influence to support the idea of natural beauty, but either choose not to, or do it in a half-a$$ way. But then, as many of you recently pointed out — naturals shouldn't be looking to pop culture for a handout anyway.
Tuesday, May 12, 2009
naturals from around the world: antonia in nigeria!

HAlo!
I stumbled upon your blog and waoh, it was great!!
I've been totally natural since January, didnt do a big chop, transitioned from February last year.
I live in Abuja, Nigeria now and I would definitely like to be on your blog... Reading through, the post about natural hair in Africa, Nigeria is sad but true.L says~That was a crazy post, check it out here. Someone also commented that its more about fashion, I agree with that.
My sister would look at my natural hair and say its woolly, lol. and she can never let her hair grow natural. Well I guess it's every man to his own.
But the main reason why I wanted to go natural was, no relaxer ever relaxed my hair well and my scalp always got burnt, I was scared of that and I had a friend in secondary school who had a mark on her ear where relaxer burnt her, I didn't want any of that sad story.
I had a low cut for a pretty long time, my mum made me cut all my hair off when I was 8, I carried that through secondary school and started growing it back at about 14, relaxed after about two years and the sad story continued, when I tried transitioning the first time, my older sister said I looked South African L asks~What's distinct about the South African look?, and incidentally we went on hols to South Africa that time... she also said, people with natural hairs looked unkempt and I shouldn't do it, got back to school after the Hols and my friends made me relax it and that was the last time any relaxer touched my hair (Feburuary 2008) Since then, I've been loving this ride.
Cheers, thank you so much for your blog!



BGLH: Where are you from?
ANTONIA: Nigeria. Born and Breed!
BGLH: What's interesting about the place where you live?
ANTONIA: I live in Abuja, the capital city - the "naija" spirit/culture in it's totality. There is something about it that makes one keep living in this frustrating country, no matter where you go it's simply unforgettable.
BGLH: What is the climate/weather like?
ANTONIA: There are only two seasons Dry and Wet, then the Harmattan which is under the dry season. It's mostly HOT HOT HOT around here, some states with mountains get really cold sometimes, especially during the Harmattan season.
BGLH: What is the natural hair scene like?
ANTONIA: Natural hair is generally not received well, especially if you are above the age of 15. The fashion definitely influences this, but many cry about natural hair not being manageable. My sister talked about wanting to get out of bed, put her hair in a pony tail and just go, something you can't achieve with natural hair. Natural hair is only accepted (female) if it's lowcut, dreads on female is still associated with ills or if you are a "Deeper life" (a popular church here where female members aren't allowed to perm their hair) or maybe you are ill.
BGLH: Where do you buy your hair products?
ANTONIA: There is no online shopping for us here, so you have to buy what's available. I buy hair products from any local store, I use Motions shampoo, Emily millionaire natural herbs and oil, this is very good! L says~Interesting. Never heard of that! and then olive oil. Most other stuff i get (bananas, egg, mayo, honey, shea butter, e.t.c) and mix myself. L says~Way to go girl!
BGLH: Do you have natural hair 'meetups' in your country?
ANTONIA: Nope. I only have one friend Jasmine, who is transitioning. We encourage ourselves, lol. My other friends are stll bewildered at our decision.
BGLH: What do you like about being natural in your country?
ANTONIA: I like that i am true to myself. I also realised that quite a number of people secretly like it, especially guys :D L says~lol at the excited smiley face!
BGLH: What would you like to see in your country in terms of natural hair care?
ANTONIA: I would love to see people embrace it and not look down on it. It's the hair God gave you for chrissakes! Lol, I know the hot weather isn't helping but I would love that people would make use of all the natural stuff good for hair, the fulanis and hausas majorly make use of this advantage and they have great tresses.
L says~Here's a photo of a Fulani woman that we profiled during African Style week:

The African Style week series was A-MAZING, so please check it out here if you slept on this!
BGLH: Anything else you want to add?
ANTONIA: I have self inflicted Alopecia at a spot at the back of my head, its coverable but i want it to grow out fast, HELP! Also if there is a way you guys can help us with getting products here, that would be awesome.
Labels:
accessories,
fro,
naturals from around the world,
nigeria
Reactions to the Tyra Banks show on "good hair"
I haven't seen the show yet (I don't own a TV, so I'm going to have to catch it on the Internet tonight), but I wanted to start a discussion for people who have...
I heard that Tyra mentions on the show that "Black women account for 80 percent of hair product sales in the U.S."
Hmm... Don't know where she got that stat from... Black women make up a teeny percentage of the U.S. population (maybe 6 or 7?), so this sounds kinda off.
But anyway, I did read reactions to the show's trailer on the Tyra Banks show website, and Tyra is getting roasted. You can check it out here...
***update @ 3:22 p.m. ... I added a poll to the right toolbar so you can vote on your reactions to the show...***
I heard that Tyra mentions on the show that "Black women account for 80 percent of hair product sales in the U.S."
Hmm... Don't know where she got that stat from... Black women make up a teeny percentage of the U.S. population (maybe 6 or 7?), so this sounds kinda off.
But anyway, I did read reactions to the show's trailer on the Tyra Banks show website, and Tyra is getting roasted. You can check it out here...
***update @ 3:22 p.m. ... I added a poll to the right toolbar so you can vote on your reactions to the show...***
Monday, May 11, 2009
rock solid regimen: rmichelle

RMichelle has been featured as a Monday style icon before, and I noticed on Fotki that she had recently intensified her regimen. Since July 1, 2008 she's been on a 'no sulfate, no silicone, no mineral oil, no petroleum or drying alcohol' regimen, and I can definitely see the difference in the shine, thickness and length of her hair!
I asked her if she'd discuss her regimen, and she agreed.
BGLH: where are you from?
RMICHELLE: Currently, I live in NY and it just recently got warm outside :D lol I’m so excited; I’ve been waiting for this!
BGLH: why did you make the decision to go natural, and when did you do it?
RMICHELLE: I decided to grow out my natural hair in 2007…here’s the story:
I was in college and in a different state from my beautician (for whom I used to work). So, because I worked for her, I never had to pay to get my hair done. I never relaxed my hair while I was away from home for 2 reasons; (1) I refused to pay anyone because I had grown accustomed to free services LOL and (2) I was leery about allowing someone other than my beautician relax my hair. On the rare occasions that I would visit home I would get my hair relaxed by my beautician…I was going months without touch ups. By the end of my college career I thought “why don’t I just grow out my relaxer and do a press & curl instead?” I was using my Chi to get me through the months of stretching anyway so I figured I might as well skip the chemical process altogether and if I couldn’t manage my natural hair I’d just relax again *shrug*. That’s all there is to it…turns out I can manage LOL... I don’t think it took long for my hair to grow. I was just patient and waited.
BGLH: what products/ingredients do you use?
RMICHELLE: I stick with products that don’t have petroleum, mineral oil, drying alcohols, cones or sulfates. I find that my hair maintains more moisture by avoiding those ingredients. L says~ Here is a list of RMichelle's products (taken from her fotki page.)
cowash conditioner: nature's gate
deep conditioner: aubrey organics
leave in: giovanni direct
moisturizer: carol's daughter healthy hair butter
"shampoo": dr. bronners liquid castile soap
BGLH: what mistakes have you made in your natural journey that you've learned from?
RMICHELLE: Waiting too long to detangle my hair!! Omgness, I was reading the details of others’ routines and a lot of people wrote that they only detangled their hair once or twice a month. Being that I loathed detangling in the beginning of my natural hair experience I thought to myself, “Yes! That’s what im gonna do too” I made the silly mistake of doing what worked for others and waited 3 weeks before detangling my hair and it took me forever and a day to get through it. Never again. I detangle once a week now lol.
BGLH: could you describe your regimen?
RMICHELLE: My routine is quite simple, this is what I do:
• Detangle hair
• Cleanse hair (castile soap or co-wash)
• Moisturize hair
• Air dry/style
I do my hair in sections no matter what I’m doing. Washing, detangling, styling etc.; I always part my hair into at least 4 sections.
BGLH: how does your hair work for your life (as a mom/student/professional/etc,etc)?
RMICHELLE: My hair does what I want it to do…yeah…I know there are a lot of naturals who insist on letting their hair do what it want but…I run thisallupinhere. As an up and coming professional I like for my hair to be neat (no funky fros for me). I like puffs, twists, buns, coils and occasional straight styles.
BGLH: where do you get style inspiration from?
RMICHELLE: I never know what to do with my hair. I get inspiration from everywhere (public, magazines, fotkis etc.); if I see it and I like it I’ll try it.
BGLH: what's the best thing about being natural?
RMICHELLE: I’d have to say the versatility is my favorite thing.
BGLH: anything else you want to add?
RMICHELLE: Hair politics are for those who need more to do…it’s hair, enjoy it.







I always love having RMichelle on BGLH. Thanks girl!! For more of RMichelle check out her fotki page. Also, BGLH reader Jai informed me that Tyra Banks will be discussing the question "What is good hair?" on her show Tuesday, May 12. Sounds like it could be interesting...
***update @ 10:24 a.m. ... also, we have a great "sunday retrospective" discussion going on about newbies' (new naturals) reactions to the online and real world natural hair community. newbies please weigh in!***
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